Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,108 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi All
I’ve spent an hour or so in the garage today escaping from Christmas preparation duties. In that time I’ve fully dismantled a DJ4 distributor and after the bits were cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner I’m ready to reassemble.
I was fully prepared to buy a new cap but I have about three that look in quite good shape so two of them went in the cleaner and have come out clean but with a matt finish. I guess I’ll have to wait until they are on the car to be sure they work.
However any hints tips etc on how to bring them back to their shiny original condition without ruining the electrical insulation properties?
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 738 Threads: 13
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Try some spray body laquer use a petrol resistent one.
If you want to be period use some shellac.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,108 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Thanks Dickie and Steve
I hadn’t thought about shellac but Steve’s solution seems good too.
Have a great Christmas
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,018 Threads: 53
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Location: The delightful town of Knaresborough, North Yorkshire
23-12-2021, 12:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 23-12-2021, 12:09 PM by andrew34ruby.)
Just to point out, there are two very different products to do this job, with different advantages and disadvantages. Holts made Wet Start and also made Damp Start. Other firms use various names for the two products.
One is a varnish type product that needs a very clean surface to grip to. Often it cracks and peels, letting water in the cracks and never drying out. It might last a number of years, but once cracked and peeling it is difficult to do again.
The other product is an oily, waxy water dispersant. WD40 is the most common, but there are others. Duck oil works well. Spraying on top of dirt and water doesn't matter. Even putting it on cracks usually works fine. It can easily be washed off with petrol if you want to clean it off and start again. Disadvantage is that it might need re-doing from time to time.
Hope this helps.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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I'm intrigued as to whether this stuff is actually needed for Howard's, or whether it's just for getting the appearance back? Would the satin not just come back through use and handling?
I noticed the visual effect of cleaning on seeing some sort of blast cleaned crankcase. It looked quite different to the feeling of a 90 year old crankcase that has just been cleaned down with diesel, showing all the remarkable surface detail of how the mould was formed; bits of wood and screw heads and stuff.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Jon
agree with respect to crankcases. The blast cleaned jobbies are horrible when compared to an unmolested one. Ive just cleaned the spare here with some worn scotchbright and some white spirit. It came out very well.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,978 Threads: 90
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Location: Ripon
I avoid WD40 like the plague on ignition systems. I was told that it eventually becomes hygroscopic and together with dust this makes for perpetual problems...
I always think of a Swallow owner who had broken down beside the Ripon relief road on his way to Newby Hall about 10 or so years ago, before I had an Austin. Of course I stopped in the Pembleton to offer assistance, as did a pal with a 2CV who was passing in the other direction. The owner had some woodwork tools and a can of WD40 as his roadside repairs kit and was trying to spray the contact breaker screw back into the base plate with the trusty can of WD...
Yes, we got it going and he was delighted as it had "been running a bit rough all the way" from somewhere down South.
