Accelerator control spindle jams against motor

[Graham O]

In 1977 I took my early '34 RP apart. I'm now assembling it (good things take time) and I find that the accelerator control spindle rubs against the back of the motor. Looking at the parts list 1029A, it appears that I have all the correct control parts, with a cranked control spindle, however the cranked section is rubbing against the back of the motor. Looking at the problem it seems as if a straight spindle (somewhat as per the low frame car) would work better.  

I have to admit that the motor I have assembled is definitely not original, but it is at least a 2 bearing one of almost the correct vintage but made from a collection of parts.  Could it be that I have a later barrel on the motor that places its back face closer to the firewall?  The motor is correctly mounted, and the body went back on the chassis without difficulty.  I can't see any reason for the spindle to be mounted too far forward.

I am about to make a straight spindle, but maybe there is something I have done wrong.  Any advice welcome.

[Parazine]

Possibly due to using a low frame crankcase? Crankcases were mixed (low and high) between approximately 199000 and 249000 and there were some high frame 3 bearing crankcases made for military contracts.

Best to check the spacing between engine mounting and starter motor bulge on the off side.

[Tony Griffiths]

In my limited experience, I have had to make up just one new set of control rods for my 1930 Chummy. While one was OK, I made the other a tad too long - the interesting result being that when on full lock, the accelerator was depressed - resulting in a fortunately avoided accident. So, the conclusion: If you make up new rods (and you might not get it right the first time) do check for clearance at the extremes of travel.

[dickie65]

Are you refering to the bar that crosses behind the block which has the pedal on one end and the throttle actuating lever on the other ?
If so loosen the pedal pinch bolt and actuating arm pinch bolt and re set the crossbar position then try it again.
The bar is curved in the middle to go over the flywheel cover.

A picture of the problem helps.

[Mike Costigan]

Possibly due to using a low frame crankcase? Crankcases were mixed (low and high) between approximately 199000 and 249000 and there were some high frame 3 bearing crankcases made for military contracts.

Best to check the spacing between engine mounting and starter motor bulge on the off side.

Not just military applications, late AVJ vans used them too.

[David Stepney]

I had a similar problem with my RP a little while ago. On full right lock, the end of the draglink was lifting the throttle lever at the base of the steering column. It took a bit of resetting the linkage, but, as dickie65 says, slackening the actuating arm pinch bolt on the throttle cross shaft means that all the linkage can be adjusted to get rid of the problem.

[Graham O]

Thanks for your suggestions.  My control spindle (Austin's terminology) hits the back of the barrels at about the point where a frost plug is placed.
In my case, the spindle is notched to locate the levers at each end.  I will try rotating the spindle to find a happy clear spot and then add new notches to enable the levers to be put at the correct angle again.  Much easier than making a new spindle.

Thanks again folks. Wonderful to get overnight help into New Zealand.

[Reckless Rat]

The spindle is only notched on the offside (right hand side) of the car - the notch allows the pedal to rotate the cross-shaft without moving the hand throttle lever, which idles. The lever that actuates the carburettor at the other end is located by a pinch bolt. If the cross-shaft is resting on the core plug at the back of the block it needs to be rotated rearwards. Have you by any chance removed it & then put it back together wrong? If your engine is a bitsa (like mine) it may have a low frame crankcase, in which case it is difficult to remove the engine and gearbox without removing the flywheel cover, and in some cases the throttle cross-shaft.

[Graham O]

My spindle was notched on both ends.  It now has two new notches almost opposite that allows good clear movement. All is now well, but clearly I have a non standard setup that now works ok.
Thanks to all for your help. WHAT A GREAT FORUM!
Graham