Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,141 Threads: 111
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi Jon
I suspect that the old cotters you have may have been filed to fit. I have found that the spring pin retaining cotters require quite a bit of work, especially the need to reduce the length slightly.
Cheers
Howard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 209 Threads: 1
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There were at three different sizes of the 1/4"BSF cotter you show here.
I'm fairly sure that was reduced to one standard size in the 70s and 80s by suppliers keeping costs to a minimum.
This was quite important in the financially challenged good old days
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,808 Threads: 99
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hi jonE,
im not sure if people will see whats wrong.
if you meen the thread of the new ones are in the centre of the cotter, rather than offset to the edge. so the taper can be cut properly.
then yes, the new ones are made WRONG.
the thread should be offset.
as ian says. there were originally 3 different lengths, brake arm, rear spring pin, cross shaft.
tony
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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thanks Tony. It wasn't me going mad. I'll have to look through my invoices!
Incidentally, I realise these are meant to go in from the back to be nutted on the front.
Which means you can't drive them out easily at the right angle when they inevitable stick, as they've been faffed around with and filed before fitting.
Is there any good reason why they couldn't be secured at the back, if there is space to get the thing in from the front?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,715 Threads: 47
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
Ahh Jon you are learning about the disappearing art of fitting!
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,808 Threads: 99
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Hi jonE.
You can fit them wrong way round.
But there are 2 reasons you shouldn't.
First, is if fitted the correct way round. There is a machined flat area for the nut and lock washer to sit square on.
Second, " try getting one out again when it's in wrong way around" there is a strengthening web in the way. So you cant get a drift on the thread straight. I've been there a few times. And when the slip cotter is really stuck fast, and bending wilst you are hitting it. Trust me you will wish you had the idiots name and number who fitted it. So you can go kick him in the nuts.
Tony.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
I've just purposedly fitted a pair to an axle arse backwards. As I did in 1996 when I fitted the last pair to the same car.
I have a cranked punch made out of some fab stuff which is mint for belting them out with. An absoloute doddle as you can really swing the hammer from behind without the wheel fitted.
I filed up some tapered washers for the nut issue and re used.
Father had fitted the ones on the RP the correct way round. Believe you me, despite seeing the nut end, you try belting them out. the spring and damper get in the way. Then you twat the crossmember on the back swing. Given the springs were fubar on that, i just cut the bottom leaf and dealt with it on the bench.
I always dry fit on the bench and mark up the spring pins so I know the position the cotter will go in. I also plaster them in plumbago which has to help. I also do not go OTT with the tightness either. Whilst probably not good in engineering terms I find a good gob of paint on the protruding thread stops the nut coming undone itself. Poor mans loctite!.
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29-11-2021, 11:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-11-2021, 12:53 PM by JonE.
Edit Reason: stupidity
)
update - Oh damn - just realised why i've been head scratching over all this - I've been working on the axle whilst upside-down! So I now see Tony's point which previously I'd been thinking was a problem "on the other side". I'm going to assemble as per intended.
