How far, is too far gone.......??

[Bob Culver]

Pleasing to read that Martin at least is preserving the Seven traditions of the 50s and 60s.
Sadly many used parts are allowed to rust rendering tham scrap or triggereing expensive machining. Sound bes can be adapted over a wide range, cranks can be trued with emery cloth, cheap ordinary ball races used at front, flywheel balanced statically etc.

[Denis Sweeney]

Thanks one and all for the varied comments, I had guessed it would bring differing views.
I would always try to restore wherever possible but my A7 knowledge in all things A7 is limited to Ruby so thought it would be worth asking the question.
From what I currently have, the 3 bearing option would appear the least expensive route, but cannot ever imagine putting it in Ruby unless something serious happened, will have to have a serious think……
Thanks again Denis S

[Reckless Rat]

Denis, as a Scot and a Yorkshireman (and latterly a Frenchman) I can't see the point in going to a load of expense rebuilding an engine (2 or 3brg) if all you're going to do with it is to shove it under the bench, just in case. If you're not going to use it then it seems to me at least a cheaper and easier option just to keep the spares, and should the day come when the car needs a fettling, to do it then.

One thing to bear in mind is that whilst the 3 bearing engine has shell bearings they are inherently weaker, crankshaft wise than a 2 bearing engine and need to be line bored in order to prevent deflection of the centre bearing under load. Not something you can do on the kitchen table. Talk to someone that knows before you go down that route.

A full engine rebuild can cost considerable amounts of beer tokens, which ever option you choose. Don't bodge it. Do it right, do it once.

[JonE]

why not properly breakdown and gradually appraise all the parts you have?
See what was the reason engines were discarded, or put aside.
Pro jobs for complete reliability means thousands just in parts. Yet as Martin has advocated, one can resurrect unused/unmaintained engines with a few parts and a lot of time and consideration for just a few hundred quid if you are canny. And it teaches you a lot. If you found an engine of yours that wasn't entirely broken, it could get you another running unit for emergencies, or to sell on.
Why wouldnt you consider putting a three bearing in a Ruby though? That is what they did from '36-'38.

[Chris KC]

Denis I don't understand why you don't think a 3-bearing engine belongs in a Ruby - surely all post-'36 Rubies had them?

Reckless is quite right in saying that line-boring is the way, and if you want any guidance on that I'd be happy to oblige. 
Not quite sure I buy the 'inherently weaker' part... but let's not get side-tracked!

[Denis Sweeney]

I have a fully restored 2 bearing engine in my Ruby with little over 500 miles on her to date which I believe is the original. Unfortunately the engine is the one major item I did not actually restore myself and so would like to rebuild one solely as a suitable next project to continue tinkering.
My intent would be to follow the lines all as described by JonE utilising as much of the component parts I currently have and only buy new as and when necessary.
As Ruby was a 2 bearing engine it seemed to me to be the natural thing to do, however as you have seen the one 2 bearing crankcase appears to all intents knackered.
If I was never to build an engine it would mean nothing other than something I had not done and a missing part so to speak, it is not critical so I asked the question regarding the 2 bearing to get opinions, as I say I will have to think on.
Another A7 would be great but simply out of the question………

[Howard Wright]

Hi Denis

I’m in a similar position to you.  I’ve just about finished my Special and my RK is running OK so I’m out of projects to get stuck in to (apart from decorating and gardening but I can put those off).

Having built the special engine in a mildly tuned way (Ricardo head, 1 1/2” crank, SU and four branch exhaust) I’ve been captivated by the extra power.  So I’m building an engine to put in the RK. It will be tuned although not to the extent of spoiling the external appearance so as to preserve its period look.

Would this be a route that could satisfy your project itch?  

Cheers

Howard

[Chris KC]

Fair enough - I made a similar decision for my Box, which had a ratty crankcase. Picked up another at Beaulieu for 45 quid, needed a new lip but otherwise fine and even the right production month - sorted.

[JonE]

Howard - did you go the Phoenix route for your 1 1/2 crank, or a tested Nippy one? and how about rods? What cost element did "that bit" all boil down to, as presumably that also entails crankshaft bearings rather than checking the originals.

[Howard Wright]

Howard - did you go the Phoenix route for your 1 1/2 crank, or a tested Nippy one? and how about rods? What cost element did "that bit" all boil down to, as presumably that also entails crankshaft bearings rather than checking the originals.

Hi Jon

No it’s a billet crank of unknown origin with nippy rods. Fortunately the white metal was good. I got change from £500 for the crank and rods. But I’d hate to add up all the rest…Bearings alone made my eyes water (I used the bearings suggested by Terrytuned, thread somewhere on this site). At a guess I’d say £3 to 4k for parts and machining and weeks of work putting it together.

The new engine is less radical, Phoenix 1 5/16 splash, Austin rods, Paul Bonewell cam (standard) and a 60 thou wedge skim on the low compression head. I’ll probably use standard bearings but I’ve done a bit of grinding and honing on the ports.  The block, head, crank, con rod etc are all away being seen to and balanced.

Cheers

Howard