Joined: Feb 2021 Posts: 42 Threads: 19
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Location: Northern Ireland
Car type: Ruby Mk1
My mk1 Ruby 1934 crank is probably in need of a re-grind and con rods re- metalled.
Is there any point in modifying the con rods to accept later “off the shelf” shells?
Or is that a stupid idea…..
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
I wouldn't say "stupid" but the benefit is, I think, questionable.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
The shells for the 3-bearing crank are narrower as are the big ends and journals; also they are drilled for the oil holes in the later rods. Also I do not know whether the big ends in the early rods are machined to the same diameter as the later ones. I think there are many pitfalls which may be better avoided.
Joined: Feb 2021 Posts: 42 Threads: 19
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Location: Northern Ireland
Car type: Ruby Mk1
Thanks for the advice, I will stick the original design.
So, where do I get a crank reground and bearings re-metalled?
It all sounds very expensive!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
I think it highly unlikely the 'bare' rod without white metal is the correct diameter to clamp the shells properly; if bigger it would be very hard to arrange; if smaller they could be machined to size, but it's a precision job and would start to cost money.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
First have to find 4 rods good enough to warrant the expense. A problem is that the OD of rthe shells axceeds the bolt spacing so the curious scalloped bolts as the later engines or somesuch has to be adopted. Would require very acurate centring. The caps at have to be extended wider with bronze typically.
Assuming the crank is not cracked, not hopelssly oval or scored or rust pitted, and the white metal not failing with cracks, much often used to be routinely accomplished with nothing more than patience and common sense skill.
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also now, you might as well at least start to compare costs for a Phoenix crank/rods versus machining/white metalling costs on original?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Last time I had crank pins reground it was £44 for the set, so no biggy. But I'm afraid I'm in Bedfordshire so you'd be better off looking for a reliable recon shop locally - try your local A7 club for leads.
I'll leave others to suggest for re-metalling the rods.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,193 Threads: 71
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John Kirby in Croydon would be my go to for such work...