Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 620 Threads: 7
Reputation:
7
Location: queensland
As well as the usual methods of heat then plus gas application and incrementally twist and untwist .You might try tightening a modern radiator clamp around the upper portion of the aluminium collar to save the surface and get a grip
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,019 Threads: 169
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
You are correct - there's no part of that cap that's original - so if the worst comes to the worst, you can cut it off without damaging any original components.
Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,571 Threads: 20
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14
Location: Bala North Wales
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Is there some sort of pin or grub screw that I can see on the left of the photo above the start of the bonnet hinge?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 418 Threads: 19
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Potential for a very nice car here — I have a hunch the spinners are from Cambridge Engineering, I had them on my Cambridge where they looked OK.
Of course it’s a matter of taste but I’m not sure they work quite so well on the relatively sophisticated design of the Arrow.
It’s only an opinion …………
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 77 Threads: 7
Reputation:
1
Location: West Australia
Car type: Arrow Competition 75
Spinners are original equipment on the 65 and 75 Arrow, they are illustrated on contemporary advertising brochures.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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Car type:
presumably that is an aluminium converter for a bayonet rad cap on an earlier screw thread radiator? So both junctions will have corrosion. I'd grab the top of the brass logo bit with extremely large stilsons to try and release after putting some heat on. Something will probably snap somewhere. The base screw thread may give first.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 934 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
In view of the non-originality of the cap/neck arrangement I would use a Dremel type tool to make a slot down each side of the aluminium extension piece, and split it off with a couple of large screwdrivers, posibly leaving a standard threaded neck. It almost looks to me as though that neck may have been soldered onto the original to extend it. If that is the case, carefully melt or break the solder leaving the original bayonet neck or a neck which could be recovered to that desirable state.