Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 738 Threads: 13
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Hi Chris,
I have been in contact with a Lazer Welding specialist to do some work on a couple of 9E Blocks it will be expensive but so is a 9E Nippy Block.
No pre heating required. They can weld up valve seats in cast iron !!!
I suspect this option will be out of your price range ( I am hoping it will not be out of mine either )
In your case I would just make up a block of steel to just under the block spot face height and fit a heavier washer and enjoy the driving.
Best of Luck with it.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
And even if it is cracked to the bore not the end. No water involved. could drill and fill just beyond visible end of crack. If it is a good block not seriously worn, you have the pistons for, not showing rust coming through worth a punt. Unlikley to strrnd you. Attention to the engine mounts may lessen the loads on the stud, much of which comes from the chassis flexing. Soft gasket lessen leaks but tax the lugs.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
Reputation:
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Thanks Dickie - yes, if it were a 9E I'd consider it but probably disproportionate for a run-of-the-mill block.
Indeed Bob, I never do engine mounts up tight and prefer a metal-to-metal block joint where possible. And I don't heave the nuts up anywhere near as tight as the previous owner of this engine!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 985 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
Laser welding is amazing. A friend did software for The Welding Institute outside Cambridge who developed these techniques. Another friend had lengths of copper pipe welded to stainless steel for industrial heating installations.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2019 Posts: 446 Threads: 69
Reputation:
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Location: Oxted
Car type: Austin 7s
It looks to me that your block has liners fitted.
I'd suggest that it's not worth repairing.
Best to try and find a sub 0.060" block without liners.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
To repair it well cheaply. Braze every time.
But best idea is find another
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,534 Threads: 60
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You may recall that I had a block failure of spectacular proportions. My diagnosis was that one broke leading to a daisy chain of snapping and cracking. Yes, a performance engine but I'd be wary about relying on a dodgy block or stud.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Looking at the picture I would consider welding with silicon bronze . Before starting make a template from card showing the position of the hole Clean up around the break first with a die grinder. Then do the welding filling the gap where the hole is. When cool tidy up with a grinder and a file then re drill.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
