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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
You need to set the various adjustments in a sensible order to get good results, i.e Set the main column end float first, preferably with the drop arm gear out of the way. Then set the drop arm end float by shimming the thrust button in the back of the box making allowance for final tightened gasket clearance. You can now bring the worm and gear into mesh and adjust for minimum play at extremes of movement, in other words at full lock left and right. If you have done all of this correctly and still have play straight ahead then you have wear in one or more of the components, it is reasonably well documented how to deal with that elsewhere. One thing not to overlook which in my experience has quite a bearing in free play is wear in the drop arm bush, these are available new from our suppliers.
Black Art Enthusiast
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15-06-2021, 08:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-06-2021, 08:51 PM by John Cornforth.)
Hi Simon
From the shape of the gear, this looks like the later "hourglass" steering box introduced in mid-1936. I can't be sure so maybe you could check ?
Much has been written about Austin Seven steering boxes, but if doing your own searches be aware that some material will be referring to the earlier type.
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Are we looking at dirt or rust or grease? I trust the tooth on left is not fractured. About the only way could wear uniformly would be if used as a winch, which I have seen.
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John you are mistaken it is not the hourglass box that is depicted
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I have found it difficult assessing a similar gear for wear (perhaps where all three sectors have been used) just by looking at it, from a lack of pics to refer to. Could someone post an example of the teeth where wear is too far advanced for use? (rather than obvious damage) And teeth in an unused state?
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I stand corrected. It's a long time since I have had a steering box apart, about all I remember is that the gear wouldn't come off even with my best puller !
I have used Penrite steering box lube with success. It's thixotropic and stays in place but is thinner than grease.
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Thank you for all the advice folks. I’ve been working away with grinding paste as suggested and there only appear to be a couple of pitted teeth. From playing with it on the bench I think I can adjust out the play but I’m going to do a bit more polishing first. I’ll let you know how I get on but I’m away for the next week so don’t expect an update soon.
Stephen Kay - yes that is me at Forrestburn. I suspect you are the Stephen Kay who was instrumental in getting it off the ground and curator at Summerlee.
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
The main source of play in these boxes comes from either the column thrusts ( using the threaded adjuster), the interaction between the worm and wheel ( via the adjustable cover) and play in the drop arm shaft and its bush. There is also the interaction between the drop arm shaft and the thrust button, which can be affected during " enthusiastic" removal of the gear from the shaft taper. Above all, do not expect to be able to remove ALL free play or it will stiffen up on lock. The art is in hitting the right spot between play and overtightness, and I'll guarantee it will feel different on the road than on the bench. This is a can of worms and I've never bottomed mine.
