Why is my sump filling up with fuel ???

[flywheel1935]

Daveg, I,ve 2 videos, but can't seem to add as attachments ??? (MP4, whatever that means)
But if I had an email address they could be forwarded .

[Ruairidh Dunford]

You will need to upload the video to YouTube or Vimeo etc., then post a link.

[Nick Lettington]

Rough rumbling and back firing? Now thst sounds familiar... I suspect that you may want to re-check the ignition timing.

It surprised me how far out the timing can be on a running engine.

[flywheel1935]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1KXTMt...vdvdmmwwnA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CoVK9WI7t8

I seem to have started a YT Channel, Comment welcome.

[David Stepney]

Rough rumbling and back firing? Now thst sounds familiar... I suspect that you may want to re-check the ignition timing.

It surprised me how far out the timing can be on a running engine.

I agree with Nick. Having played the Youtube clip of the running engine, I would say that the timing is too advanced. A high compression head does not need as much advance as a low compression one, as the flame front has less distance to travel. I recall that my special, with a much planed Cambridge head growled like a pig if it had more than about 8 degrees of advance. By contrast, my RP, on a slightly 'wedged'  standard head is perfectly happy at 20 degrees.

I would set the timing initially to TDC and then manually advance the distributor until the engine is just sounding rough and then back off the distributor until it just doesn't. If your car has a manual advance and retard, set the mechanism so that this position is the maximum advance on the lever. If an distributor with automatic advance, wedge the bob weights to their most advanced position before setting the timing. Unwedge them after the timing is set.

[flywheel1935]

The pick up on the throttle is now instant, and the engine is pulling ok,
but in this video, https://youtu.be/VR7K0R-X2ng

you can hear the 'rumble' and tappets, despite checking them all earlier, 004" for inlets & 006" for exhausts , as suggested by a long term A7 owner (62 years) !!!

[Steve Jones]

If the tappet screws are indented you'll always struggle to gap them correctly. However, I wouldn't worry too much if it is a bit 'tappety' at the moment. You can sort that later once you've got the engine running nicely. As a very experienced motor engineer known to a few of us on hear often says, 'You can't hear a tight tappet'! As to the rumbling I agree with the suggestions above, sounds like too much advance.

Steve

[Nick Lettington]

With my AAL, it is just possible to get the top section of the floor out and the flywheel pit cover off with minimal effort (just the  brake pedal) so the Ruby should be similar.  Following an old forum thread I aligned the 1/4 mark with the oil take off to the pressure gauge and use a fag paper to set the points just opening. You need to make sure that the rotor arm is facing the plug lead for no1 piston so that it is on the firing stroke, but it is not rocket science. I then backed the timing off a little further with the engine running as it sounded a little grumpy still.

[flywheel1935]

Cheers guys, will take another look at the timing, but I've fitted a Powerspark Electronic unit, while the original dizzy is off for a rebuild. To time it, as recommended by the engine builder he suggested 20 degrees BTC, which is 1-3/4" arc, but may well retime at 10 Degrees BTC, or 0.875" BTC. Still think something mechanical is making all the noise, A loose f/wheel has been suggested, and pushing on the clutch 'possibly' lowers the noise !!!!, but maybe just hoping ??? think the lump may be out and on the bench soon.

[Nick Lettington]

It's the misfiring that makes me suspect timing as.much as the grumbling. Is it also running hot?