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It is also my experience that Austin Sevens, in standard form, run perfectly well on E5 and E10 fuel.
Americans have been running their Austin Sevens and others on E10 for a good number of years now without issue.
When I have asked for specific failures in Austin Sevens relating to ethanol, it draws a blank.
I have been directed to reports and articles of a general nature but, on drilling down, have yet to find the theory pans out in Austin Sevens, unless a deviation from original has occurred.
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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01-06-2021, 08:41 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-06-2021, 09:04 AM by flywheel1935.)
Morning guys, Ruairidh the Powerspark system I fitted came complete , inc thier coil, dizzy, leads etc, but my original dizzy is currently being rebuilt, as I prefer the copper leads anyway, so either can be kept as spare.
John, correct the 20 degree BTC is to be checked ( according to builder ) at 2-3000rpm, all I can do now is recheck the whole system and report my findings later in the week.
Over and out !!!!
John , quick update, All the jets I can access are as you described, ref the numbers stamped on them, apart from the progression jet that I cannot check due to a stuck access plug ' Ill attempt to remove later but I guess as the others are correct, then this should also be the case ???
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi
Re the progression jet. It's exceedingly unlikely to have been changed in size. Even if blocked, it has only a small effect on running at the instant you open the throttle. If the access plug is stuck, I would be inclined to leave well alone.
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Hi John , on this occasion totally agree, looking to reassemble and get engine running later today with luck ???? fingers crossed. 
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Sorry, missed all the responces.
My logic.
1. The only viable cause in my book. A leaking diaphragm does leak fuel direct into the sump.
2. Your car has a fuel pump, so should be rear tank (I see it is a Ruby so yes). to get in the engine via the manifold it has to go up hill. Gravity doesn't work like that, and I assume you don't pressurise your tank?
3. In my youth I ran a car seriously rich, yes it didn't do the bores much good, but the engine was 7/8 worn out when I started. The oil still never smelt of petrol. And the oil level went down after every use, not up.
I could see that if you crank and crank an engine with poorly set valve or ignition timing that your would flood the engine, and this would percolate into the fuel, but you would need to really crank it for a long time for this to have a significant effect on the crankcase oil level.
As noted, all this worry about ethanol is mostly bollox. Particularly on a factory seven with very little rubber in the system. A late car needs a ethanol proof pump diaphragm and that it. The big problem my american friends tell me with the ethanol fuel is that it holds moisture, so if you let your machine stand with it in for a long time, the water content causes corrosion. Particularly in the carb and fuel tank.
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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Hi Hedd-Jones.
John Cornforths explanation ref the excess fuel 'leaking into the engine' has some merit , that I have taken seriously. As the car simply refused to start properly after days of attempts would result in numerous float chambers of unburnt fuel going somewhere. having now reset the needle valve, new plugs, adjusting the timing, etc "I'm hoping the results are as expected !!!
We are not talking about just a small amount of fuel, but the dipstick between 1/2"-3/4" higher than top level.
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UPDATE: did all of the above, primed, choke, 5 revs on the handle, ignition on, fired up second swing, HAPPY DAYS,
well NO, runs on all 4 pots, but still sounds like a bag of spanners in the tumble drier. next job, recheck valve clearances and drain out flushing oil and fill with fresh 20-50W.
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If the engine has recently been rebuilt, why are you running it with flushing oil in the sump? Surely the engine internals were cleaned as part of the rebuild?
If the sump is full of a mixture of flushing oil and petrol I would expect it to sound a bit clattery.
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Some years ago a neighbour had a late pushrod Cortina which would not start. By changeing over batteries they cranked it on and off for days. The engine was so dry I couls hear it squecking from next door. Transpired the camshaft was broken....
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Malcolm, rewind; the fuel contaminated oil was drained, I then refilled with the flushing oil, and ran for 10 mins at idle, as per the instructions on the can.
that has now been drained, and the original spin on oil filter removed, Tomorrow I will fill the new spin on filter, fill the freshly cleaned sump with fresh 20-50W mineral oil, and spin over with the plugs out, replace plugs, then finger crossed fire it up, simples.
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