Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
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I have finally got myself a mk2 ruby, after sorting the rear window issue noticed the metal looking "odd" beneath the thick red oxide paint, and where the inner wing meets the body is totally rotten, should I patch it or buy a whole new repair panel, if so where from and just how important are inner wings for structure?
And are there any other areas prone to rust other than the usual wing as running boards? most of the car looks nice but I don't know if any serious corrosion could be lurking.
Hope to hear back.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,662 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
It’s very common for Sevens to rust there as moisture gets in between the rear mudguard, the beading and the body. I don’t think it’s that important to the structure and repairing it isn’t that difficult.
I would run around in the car for a while and see if anything more important needs sorting then have a welding session over winter!
Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
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unfortunatley id be welding outside and the interior is visible through the holes so i couldn't really go out in wet weather as it sits
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,662 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Well, it sounds like duct tape for the time being and wait for a sunny day!
I've had to work on my Sevens out in the road in the dim and distant past, but thankfully there was a lot less traffic around in those days and when I had a driveway, it was pure luxury.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,059 Threads: 109
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Location: Cheshire
Areas of corrosion seen most often on our cars differs more than might be expected, but a badly rusted Ruby body would perhaps be expected to have corrosion at the bottom of the A and B posts and the floor (anywhere it hasn't remained oily) and the rear at the bottom where the spare wheel sits? All these were missing or very holey on my car before welding repairs. But the inner wings weren't bad and needed only an odd patch.
As the sills were also shot - the car had been under a leaky tarpaulin in a garden for 20 yrs - it might have been better in my case to start with another body, though they are generally simple to check and repair - only the A and B posts and bits of the scuttle are more complex, being multi-layered, but even these can be repaired at the bottom end with simple bent sections of suitable steel plate. The pressed panels of the body were largely sound, having been protected by many layers of paint - so it was only the lowest regions - the bottom couple of inches - that were badly affected.
Over the last 20 years of use, it has only been the rear of the front wings and the front of the rear inner wings that have seen any significant renewed corrosion.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 725 Threads: 38
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Location: Herefordshire
We see a fair number of rusty Rubies and Colin has summed up the usual trouble spots, to which I'd add the lower edges of the doors and the front bottom corners below the hinge. all of these are generally quite simple to repair.
The main problem with Mk2 Rubies is usually the condition of the woodwork, which is often crumbling, even in otherwise sound cars. We have a theory that earlier models had received some sort of timber preservative/insecticide treatment that was not applied to the late cars.
Joined: Jul 2018 Posts: 102 Threads: 33
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the wood work on this is absolutely wonderful, doors line up perfect, oh no bottom of the door that rotten as the bottom 1/8 has been removed at some point...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Heavily bogged cars are the main liability.
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Location: Cheshire
If you mean heavily bodged, Bob, that can be true - but a Ruby has a chassis and is simply constructed so you can usually see what is there? More difficult with a heavily fibreglass-filled monocoque?
