A young chap I know did the same in his 110 and I had to replace the loom from the bulkhead to the rear... still at least it didn't catch fire.
On the 7 front I filed a disk of steel to make a thick washer and then drifted the cam follower guides out... little steps but it should be all in one piece again for a wedding in June.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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7 Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
I was regularly replacing the hydraulic brake light switch on my Seven and found the solution was to fit LED stop light bulbs or fit a micro switch on the brake pedal as the current modern hydraulic brake light switches can't handle the current of two 21 watt bulbs.
11-04-2021, 09:48 PM (This post was last modified: 11-04-2021, 09:50 PM by Bob Culver.)
re the NZ post, the open Twenty being examined by the stooped old codger is an unusual Sports model with wider valve timing. i have ridden in it and it maintains 50 mph easily., although the owner states the slow gear change limiting; difficult to change up on hills whereupon the Sevens overtake!
11-04-2021, 09:49 PM (This post was last modified: 12-04-2021, 08:19 PM by David.H.)
Mine has Morris Minor hydraulics! Screw connections etc. Not hi-tech!
Too cold to go check it out today...
Better today...Dodgy connection. All working now!
15 mile outing all good... oil pressure 5-10 when hot ..tappet chest a bit leaky.
Any advice on where the slow running adjustment screw should be set as a start point (Nippy 30 downdraft) it doesn't seem to make much difference!
14-04-2021, 08:06 PM (This post was last modified: 14-04-2021, 08:09 PM by David.H.
Edit Reason: Predictive text...aargh
)
Went to get the paper and came back blowing like a kettle! 6 mile round trip, couple of small hills. Radiator is a bit leaky, but holds a level about 1/2 "above the gills. The overflow pipe is a bit loose and that determines the level I think
Problem is I think, that recent activity has stirred uo 40 years of sludge despite flushing, back flushing etc. I have taken the side manifold off (easy with a new manifold with ss studs, as it's was the quickest way to get the*** bottom hose off. Sure enough loads of crud in the "gallery" that I flushed & scraped out. A small magnet on a telescopic handle picked up some solid flakes too. I used this through the lower rad inlet and got a lot out of there. However the salient point is that although the radiator was boiling merrily, the side outlet to radiator hos was only just warm. The radiator usually has felt warm all over in the past....cooler at the bottom of course.
Any thoughts??
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 381 Threads: 16
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8 Location: Port Elizabeth, Sunny South Africa
Car type: '26 Chummy, '28 Top Hat, '33 Type "65", single seaters
14-04-2021, 08:48 PM (This post was last modified: 14-04-2021, 08:49 PM by Greig Smith.)
David while the coolant is out, pop the top hose off at the head outlet & shove a piece of stocking up into the top hose, catching the turn under the bottom hose clamp. Now drive the car around till it gets hot again, pull the hose off & the stocking out, empty it & using the handle of a screwdriver push it back up the hose & clamp, fill & drive it again
The stocking acts as a micro-fine filter and catches all the crud that circulates when the motor is hot. No reason why you can't stick one in the bottom hose except that it's a pain to remove & refit.
Tony, PL looking neat and tidy. That was a quick resurrection! Was there much work to do?
Dave.
ps must be painted blue with Lucas R47 headlamps as of old.
15-04-2021, 09:34 AM (This post was last modified: 15-04-2021, 09:35 AM by David Stepney.)
Young Leon and I went for a family trundle up over Bwlch-y-Groes and then along the Eunant to Lake Vyrnwy and back home through Rhosygwaliau. A distance of about 25 miles.
Unfortunately, unbeknown to me, the camera battery was flat, so only one photo of the several I took actually came out. Here it is, taken as the car came over the dam.
