Clutch repair

["Slack Alice" Simon]

I don't use the split pin.   It makes it less hassle when I tighten the nuts every so often.   Less hassle means it is more likely to be done.

[AustinWood]

Often difficult to diagnose. In about 1970 a friend had a very dilapidated Rover 16 and lived along a muddy track. It had a worn clutch, a slipping freewheel & bald tyres. He could never tell which was slipping. All 3 probably.

[David.H]

I hope this closes this thread down!
 Excllent service from 7 workshop...parts arrived  on   time!☺ key replaced with new gasket. I had a 7/8 BSW socket and a foot long bar. My new hub holder worked fine and I stood on the bar until it wouldn't move! No split pin but I did mark the nut/shaft relationship with a dab of paint! I then checked the other side...PIA to get the split pin out, but the nut moved about a flat!  Marked as the other side and no pin this time!!!! Took the opportunity to adjust the handbrake. Quite a bit of slopi n the transmission when the wheels are waggled, but normal  limits I think .

[David Stepney]

Good morning David. Glad it’s all sorted.

[JonE]

the good thing with paint marking (I've done a bright yellow line on my radius arm nuts, like those markers on lorry wheel nuts) is that you are bound to get someone ELSE noticing and leaving a note on your windscreen...

[David Cochrane]

Hi David,

I'm glad that you have got the parts I sent fitted OK and that the problem has been solved.
By the way, I am not the 7 Workshop!

Happy motoring,
David

[David.H]

Whoops!
Sorry David

[Nick Turley]

I believe that a foot long bar is too short and standing on it give you no "feel'" as to how tight it is going
Personally I use a crash bar that is 3 feet long and find it easy to get it tight by "feel" - once tight it will not come slack again.
This is a area for potential trouble with austin sevens, by focusing on it and getting a good fit and the hubs tight with lovely threads - I suggest you will have no trouble.

Hope your job is a success.

[David.H]

Thanks Nick!
I will put a few miles on it & check again with an extension or borrow a decent long torque wrench.
I recall in my youth (1957!) removing a shaft from a scrap top hat saloon that had been dumped in the grounds of RMASandhurst and we used a handy scaffolding tube to unscrew the nut! After all the effort the shaft turned out to be too short for our saloon! Bought a new one in its wrapper from a garage in Farnborough I think it cost 17/6d ....the original price on the ticket.
That saloon is still on the register as an Ulster......

[Bob Culver]

Extreme tightening invites problems dismantling. The puller thread will only stand so much.