Tyre blow-out

[David Witton]

Those lights are impressive. Have you just done a straight bulb swap with LED. Are they APF?

[Mark McKibbin]

You could try the following:
Michelin 19 inch Ultra Heavy Duty Tube (Motocross)
Featuring a 4mm wall thickness, the Michelin Ultra Heavy-Duty tube is made specifically for those who push their tires to the limit in the roughest of conditions.

Reinforced tubes for off-road applications
4mm wall thickness
Provides outstanding protection against punctures and pinch flats
TR4 stem type

Michelin make heavy duty tubes, I have used them in various vintage cars and have never had a flat, the above are for motorcycles as I'm not sure they make a car one narrow enough.

[eddiefarrell]

Well done, good job. that looked scary.

[GK5268]

I use "Slime" in my wheelbarrow tyres because they used to get punctures from blackthorn trimmings. But the containers have "Not for highway use" prominently displayed. Is there a different version for car tyres ?

There are two types - one for tubeless and the for tubed - it says "not for highway use" on the tubed container as most cars would be tubeless and I guess there is a slightly different formulation to reflect the difference in how each tyre type punctures, put the wrong one in and presumably, the reaction is not as good - just my take on it!

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Those lights are impressive. Have you just done a straight bulb swap with LED. Are they APF?

I have H4 bulb connectors and H4 LED bulbs, I have a modern lens (motorcycle) that fits perfectly within the rim so a discrete modification, and that produces excellent headlights, night-driving in the Austin is better then in my "modern" (1965 Rover P6) as the driving position is above the line of on-coming headlights (mostly) and the rear blind is perfect (a roller sun screen) to prevent glare in the rearview mirror - the Rover does not have a dipping rearview mirror!

[GK5268]

An update on the use of "slime" , I have done just over 3,000 miles now and I thought it useful to share my experiences of the product.

There are two products, one for tubed tyres (aimed at motorbikes primarily) and tubeless, I don't know what the difference is between the two versions, but the correct one should be used.

300ml container is just right for each wheel.

Tyre pressures should be checked using the approved "slime" air-pressure guage product, this does not release air when the check is being made, if air is released it can behave as if a puncture is occuring and slime is discharged out. When this happens, the valve is gunged up and it will be impossible to add air - simple remedy is to remove the valve, rinse in water and then re-inflate. I have had to do this a couple of times, I always check my tyre pressures before I actually need the car just in case...!

In terms of use, I don't kniow if "slime" actually works in practice, I have relied on people doing tests (on motorbike tyres) to deliberately puncture their tyres, (I should have tried this with my old Longstone tyres...) but I feel more confident that if called upon the "slime" will prevent a rapid deflation as I had in my blow-out last year!

At speed, the car was noticeably smoother, accelerating to about 45mph seemed to happen much quicker and the car felt better for it, I am guessing that the centrifugal forces applied to the "slime" liquid are balancing the wheel (motorbike owners have suggested the same) and the car is nicer at speed as a result, dare I say, just a fraction quieter? Anyway, I am so used to it now that I don't notice any difference anymore.

"Slime" has a two-year operating life, I am guessing that I will need to replace the inner tubes at this time, it will be difficult to wash these out, so will just be easier to fit new. I will certainly continue to use this product as the peace of mind is worth every penny.

[David.H]

Green slime was used on what was left of the tyres and tubes on th AG that I brought back from Ohio to get it out of the barn where it had  died 35 + years before!  All were flat & severely cracked, 
It worked to allow the car to be moved easily enough & 8 months later they were all still  "up".

[Robin Oldfield]

Interested in the use of a dashcam. Do you need a 12 volt conversion for these?

[GK5268]

Interested in the use of a dashcam. Do you need a 12 volt conversion for these?

I fitted a USB socket, discretely fitted, so I can plug in a satnav, dashcam was plugged in but is now hardwired. I converted my car to 12volts as part of its restoration, to run on the original 6V you may need a voltage stepper, but a lot of these bits of kit seem to run at around 5V, just a case of balancing the supply with the demand and it should then work.