Cost of an engine rebuild to obtain more power unsupercharged

[merlinart]

You read those books quickly Arthur!  

I've been reading books on A7s for years, thirty odd I suppose, since first getting Chris Harvey's book about 1985 or so, then joined the 750MC and got the Companion, then Rinsey Mill's book, then a whole load more last year when I bought my knackered old Ruby! It isn't until now of course that the mechanics of it all starts to sink in as I dismantle it all.

Apparently, I'm dismantling the engine tomorrow....so I've been informed! A mechanic chum who has dismantled some before has just popped in and said, let's strip the engine tomorrow...not sure I'm ready to do it just yet, but then why not, 2 people are better than one and it gets more knowledge under the belt!

regards

Arthur

[Charles P]

So, new crank/rods, you say...would you recommend new pistons, depending upon size of course. Who makes a 4 branch manifold, and likewise an inlet manifold? I assume 1&1/8" S.U.?

I'd look here first. Most of what you need can be found here.
http://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/services.html
I've used most of them over the years. If you bother to trust them and build up a rapport they are really helpful - they'll all enthusiasts as well after all.
The other good list is the suppliers details in Chris Gould's Ulster book - although it's not as current

Charles

[Alan]

Agree with Charles ( not unusual). While I was at it I'd get the tappet blocks re ground to 2 inch radius, but really 30bhp isn't about what you do to the engine, it's about getting the inlet and exhaust manifolds working properly. All the bits you need are available probably off the shelf, but you need a good strong basic engine and that costs roughly the same whether it's tuned or not. Of course, 40hp and the whole game changes.

[Steve Jones]

Agree with Charles ( not unusual). While I was at it I'd get the tappet blocks re ground  to 2 inch radius, but really 30bhp isn't about what you do to the engine, it's about getting the inlet and exhaust manifolds working properly. All the bits you need are available probably off the shelf, but you need a good strong basic engine and that costs roughly the same whether it's tuned or not.  Of course, 40hp and the whole game changes.

And I agree with Both Charles and Alan (again, not unusual either). We're all competitors and have been there and done that when it comes to learning that whatever you do, the basic engine should be as strong as you can make it/afford. Then get it running reliably and go on from there. You say you have the Companion. That includes Holly Birkett's Paper 'From The Special Builders Angle'. Whilst he didn't have access to the range of improved parts available to us today, so much of what he wrote is still very relevant all these years later.

Steve

[Alan]

Very true, and whilst you are reading the Companion, pay special attention to Jack French's "wolf in Sheep's Clothing" article.