Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,393 Threads: 106
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
13-06-2020, 01:51 PM
(This post was last modified: 13-06-2020, 01:53 PM by Chris KC.)
I pass a rope twice around the engine passing through the mounting bolt holes and hang the rope (i.e. two strands) through the lifting hook. My engine and gearbox will go in together but you need the gearbox tail pointing down at 20 or 30 degrees then rotate as it goes through the bulkhead - this achieved with another bit of rope around the gearbox drive flange - it can be done single handed if you are well prepared. I REMOVE the cylinder head and rear two head studs to do this otherwise they foul the bulkhead. It will go in with a deep sump on - just - but equally it is possible to do it without sump and pop it on later, to do so you may need to raise the front of the engine fractionally. Don't forget to leave the handbrake off then it is possible to nudge the car back & forth to meet the engine.
If you are able to do this without the radiator in it limits the scope for awful mishaps somewhat.
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Did mine the other day (Ruby Engine) using block & Tackle + 2" wide tie-down straps, G/box was still in car, engine needed to be at a angle of about 15-20degrees to clear bulkhead, took 5 mins solo.
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Dear members, I have many years of experience all on one page in front of me and appreciate everyone's input and it will help me enormously. Will also make up some plug lifts for the future.
Rob RPM
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I have found that It is easier to get the engine in with the head off. the engine has to be fed in either level or slightly nose down. the belhousing studs will touch the bulkhead.
The deep sump makes thing tricky !
I use a webbing strop around the starter motor and manifold.
I always fitted the engine on my own with no lifting equipment for years, I put it on a platform in front of the car then lifted it over the chassis front and wrestled it into place.
I never bolt the clutch cover up tight when fitting the engine, I tighten it enough to just grip the centre plate. This allows things to be lined up more easily for me.
Its easy to tighten up the cover plate once the engine and gearbox is all in position.
I have a hoist nowadays as I have been fitting an engine into my modern sports car.
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Location: Malvern, Victoria, Australia
How do you get the straps/ropes out from under ?
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Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
It isn't difficult, especially if you have only gone round once, and the knot is at the top.
The engines are not that heavy, it is just us that have got older and/or wiser and no longer just pick them off the bench and drop them in.
One can still lift a corner or the front to pull strap/rope out.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
I always temporarily refit the starting handle so that if the blind spline is slightly out of line easy cranking of the engine (with plugs out) will bring all back in line and the engine and gearbox just comes together.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Hi Dave
The cyl pressure possibly reaches 500 psi and the piston area is over 3 square inches so it is surpring what those few studs hold, or very occassionally dont. The hammering of the cams adds a lot.
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Hi Folks,
RPM re fitting the Type 65 / Nippy engine is the most awkward of all to re fit.
You will have to remove the throttle rod from the bulkhead before you start.
If I fit mine with the head and the sump on it has to go into the bay either level or slightly nose down.
I find the belhousing studs will just scrape down the paint on the bulkhead.
Measure the length of the engine bay. Bulkhead to just inside the chassis nose.
Then measure the length of the engine from the bellhousing studs to the front of the sump.
There is not much room to play with.
Then measure diagonal lengths to simulate the engine being tipped in ( Back of the head to front corner of the sump )
My Type 65 Had the bulkhead cut vertically either side of the block to allow the block to pass through the bulkhead while fitting the engine,
the flap of bulkhead was then folded back into place. It has now been welded up as it should be.
Any advise from Ruby and Saloon owners is irrelevant until the engine is fitted into place as they have loads of space to play with.
If you take the sump and head off before you refit the engine it becomes a lot easier. Re fitting the sump afterwards is a pain though and you have nothing to put the engine down on and you risk damaging the long oil pick up.
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Plenty of food for thought re 65/Nippy. Thanks, Dickie procedure and possible snags noted.
RPM
