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19-05-2020, 08:39 PM
(This post was last modified: 19-05-2020, 08:40 PM by Rpm.)
Hi A7 friends. Having just replaced my clutch toggles, with new to a 4-speed box 36 car, I find they are all a little diff in hight ( minimal). Would it be ok to remove a little of the material on the ends that makes contact with the thrust bearing? I know some tap a pin to take up ware then adjust. However, it's a small amount of difference and plenty of metal to play with
What do you think?
RPM
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
I usually bend them with a slotted lever to get the heights right!
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19-05-2020, 08:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 19-05-2020, 08:48 PM by Rpm.)
Ivor. Whilst in situ? Do new ones bend or snap?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,647 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Well I can vouch for the fact that original ones bend okay cold...if the new ones are the same spec they should be fine...famous last words!
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Replica ones usually snap. It depends on how close to the floor you want the pedal Rpm.
Joined: Jul 2019 Posts: 187 Threads: 42
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Location: North Wales UK
Car type: Austin 7 RN 1931
Hi
I’ve done the mod detailed in the 750 MC book, it involves drilling and tapping three holes and inserting grub screws. Makes getting the lever height a breeze.h
Buy an Austin 7 they said, It's easy to work on they said !
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,110 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi RPM
I tried to hot bend (cherry red heat) some recently and found that cracks developed. I decided to drill, tap and fit grub screws under fulcrum points rather than risk cracks developing in the new ones I purchased.
I think it’s OK to bend 3 speed toggles as I think they are plain mild steel rather than forged. Others will no doubt correct my metallurgy knowledge!
Cheers
Howard
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Just read an old threat by Ian Dunford who stated toggle height don't matter so much long as clutch pushes out and
engages ok.
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When I do clutches ( 3 & 4 Speed makes no difference) I always heat and bend, never had a problem.
I always use the method John Dalby of Austin seven services recommended.
You do need do need oxcy/acetylene to do it, heat only the centre 1/2 inch turn them 90 degrees and they bend very easily.
Do leave to cool naturally ( as Mr Dalby said have a cup of tea) - no cracks, This method is quick and accurate.
It is important firstly to weld (best to use a nickle alloy rod) up any wear in the back plate slots and machine back to standard, painful to do but you do get a really nice clutch.
The lever height has to be spot on all round or otherwise you are wasting your time.
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Never ceases to amaze me the number of different opinions on how to do something.
I always prefer the proper engineering approach.
I am sure Austins didn’t heat them up and bend them during production.
The new ones from our cherished suppliers are heat treated, beautifully turned out, seems a shame to ruin them.
If you need to bend them something is wrong somewhere else.