removing rear hubs for hydraulic brake refurb

[Steve Jones]

I spoke to Rod yesterday and gave him some things to try to remove his rear hubs. He did, fully, understand how the hubs were assembled. A message from him this morning confirms both hubs are now off. Onwards and upwards, Rod.

Steve

[Rod Shaw]

Yes, thanks Steve and to others for the comments and suggestions.

Cheers, Rod

[Dave Mann]

    There are some useless hub pullers available which strip their thread with ease. I use a Sykes Pickavant which is at least 60 years old and is tough as old booots.

[Howard Wright]

Hi All

I use one of Tony Bett’s pullers.  Seems much more substantial than the traditional shaped ones.

Cheers

Howard

[Reckless Rat]

I have found it useful to ensure that the puller runs fully up the threads on the hub. I have faced off the end of the puller so there is as much thread contact as possible.some tension on the centre nut and then a whack on the end with a lump hammer usually does the trick.

[Colin Wilks]

I have yet to remove the rear hubs on either car, so have followed this thread with interest, but can I check my own thinking with them that knows please? 

Taking on board everything said about separation of the two halves and condition of the threads for the puller to locate on, I would not expect to simply wind the hub off by tightening up the puller bolt. I would nip it up as tight as I could and then hit the puller bolt dead straight with a sledge hammer, the shock on a tensioned assembly making everything ping apart. Does this make sense, or am I likely to do more harm than good?

PS Thank you Reckless. Good timing!

[Steve Jones]

Lump hammer rather than sledge hammer (rather more control), Colin, but, essentially, that's it. Remember that for the rear hubs, the hub puller is actually a half shaft pusher. You're looking to break the taper by pushing the half shaft in rather than pulling the hub off. You'll, probably, find that it doesn't let go first time. However you will find that the bolt will tighten some more so re-tighten and repeat. Two or three times is usually about it. Important that your 'strike' is hard and square on. The only time you should ever hit a Seven with a large hammer!!

Steve

[Reckless Rat]

In my experience A7 rear hubs are like the side water branch. Providing they are secure and not leaking they are best left well alone. Last time mine were off was before the "Camino" and all seems good since. I tighten mine using a 240v impact spanner.

[Colin Wilks]

Talking about controlling the blow, I have found that letting a sledge hammer drop under its own weight whilst one hand pivots the end of the handle securely is a good way to deliver a solid blow with great accuracy. Give me a lump hammer and I find it hard to resist hitting things at least twice!

[Bob Culver]

The hammer blows are all born by the wheel bearing..... something wedged against the backplate might reduce the damage. A short sharp blow with a modest hammer likely less damaging.