getting brake lining rivets 'square on'

[Bob Culver]

I note some above are using simple rounded punches whereas the proper tool is concave with a centre dimple and produces as per Robert Foremans photo with no splitting. However rivets have to be just the right length and I must admit to often finsihing with a simple rounded punch.

[Davemayle]

Homemade but does the job.

[Duncan Grimmond]

" Just open your source book p 530 "

Now that's what I call a proper swan-neck punch! Does the original Austin one really have a 6-lobed scallop engraved face around the pip or was that artistic licence?

[Reckless Rat]

Mine is like the one in Dave Mayle's post. I also have an anvil made out of 1/2" bar to put in the vice to sit the rivet head on. The only problem is not having enough hands to do it on my own... one has to call the Mem'Sahib, providing she's not having her tiffin.

[Jim Blacklock]

Dave
I was wondering what the outside diameter of your brake shoe rivet punch is to start and how much you cut away to get around the brake shoe casting rib?
Cheers
Jim

[Reckless Rat]

The widget is 1/2" bar turned down to 10mm dia with a portion for the casting rib clearance milled out to 5mm. Hope that helps.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

AG Wood writes:

"I noticed in the above forum thread that some of the contributors were experiencing difficulty retaining the brake linings on the brake shoes during the riveting operation.
The industry practice at one time was to use a pair of clamps as per 'C' in the attached pic of a page from my trusty
"Practical Automobile Engineering" as the third or fourth pair of hands.
I think one would have trouble finding new ones, but making a pair was a second-year block course exercise in elementary marking out,cutting, drilling threading and filing when I was an apprentice.
The design would have to be modified no doubt to suit the A7 style of shoe  but may be of interest to anyone who hasn't seen them before and wants to try their hand at making some. They did work rather well and eliminated a lot of stress and/or bad language.
Note that in the pro version the LH jaw is a clearance fit on the threaded portion and is lightly spring loaded towards the RH jaw. If I recall correctly the apprentice one wasn't and the screw was simply shouldered.
The tee handled screw threads into the RH jaw of course.
If you think it would be of interest,  would you mind posting it on my behalf?
Best Regards
AGW"

   

[Tony Press]

I mentioned quite a few years ago (and upset some Forum users at the time ) that in the 80's we in Australia developed bonded brake linings  as shown in the first picture.

Done by professionals it saves faffinhg about with drills, punches etcetera and provides more wearing surface without the chance of  rivets scoring the drum.

For those who like belt and braces and being occupied you can drill, countersink and fit rivets without the linings moving.

[A G Wood]

I agree, even as a former professional, bonded linings were the best thing since sliced bread in my opinion (little chance of a botched job, and also kept the boss happy because of the speed a reline job could be turned out)
Even now with limitless time, and a predilection for older technology I wouldn't even consider a rivet job.