DZUS fasteners alternatives?

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Insert Nuts Type D M6 x 20mm 50 Pack (61859)

Product rating 4.7 out of 5 stars (23)



I know it looks like a knock in, but if you are familiar with them, the difference in configuration of the exterior protrusions is easily seen.

This is a "D" nut, other versions are available.   Usually under the general heading of "furniture fixings" in most fixings supplier's catalogues.

You can get different lengths, which means you can get a heavy duty fixing - I use a couple on the special to hold the non-removable bonnet sides on to the scuttle hoop.

They haven't moved in 9 years.

They are only made of some zinc derivative, so will self destruct if the hole drilled is too small/timber too hard.

That also means they are easily drilled out if that happens, and you can move up from (say) M6 to M8, and try again.

Not very effective in end grain.

[JonE]

so out of interest, do you think that would be as strong as a barrel fastener 2cm down in the side of a wooden beam.. in ash? I wonder which is technically least invasive?

[Erich]

I have used the type of T nuts pictured, as well as ones which are threaded. They're available in stainless and work well. Another alternative I have used on removable panels in cabinets, is neodymium magnets. They could be used to complement a few screw fittings to make removing faster.

Erich in Seattle

[Zetomagneto]

This is a T nut:     the bighead would do the same job, held in place with a couple of small screws and easier to subsequently remove than a T nut.I like the bigheads.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Gut feeling comes down marginally on the side of the insert.   Barrel nut could split the wood along the grain, if you really wind up on it.

But this is what I call "fuzzy engineering" - the use of non - steel components mimicing steel fabrication.   They don't work the same way, but you can get near to the required performance of the final assenmblies.

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While we are on the subject of furniture fixings - and it is stating the blooming obvious - but I have come across many who don't see it - the T nut goes on the reverse side of the component you are bolting to.

It is not held in place by the prongs banged into the upper side of the item you are bolting to.

And - though I haven't checked - they used to be available in 5/16 Whit, as well as metric.

[Zetomagneto]

Exactly so Simon, the T nut makes for a very strong fixing if used correctly, put it on the opposite side of the bolt, doing the bolt up pulls the prongs into the wood.

[Spex]

Just wot I said in my previous reply ......on the reverse side. Cannot pull through.

[Erich]

We lazily call them all T nuts here, though Nutserts or other names crossover. I set some open stairway treads with the stainless threaded ones, in order not to see or have to plug a screw from the top. I have also used things called Rivnuts in cars.Much like a pop rivet, but with a threaded interior. Takes a special tool to set. There are also nut plates which I have used on my Rep, in order not to have to weld nuts on the body.

Erich in Seattle

[Paul N-M]

I have used T Nuts to good effect as well. I like the load spread/pull through nature of the design and can be used on end grain if you have to.

[John Mason]

I like T nuts they are like captive nuts for use in wood. The advantage against normal wood screws is that they don’t become sloppy after repeated undoing and refitting.

John Mason