Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
15-02-2020, 06:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-02-2020, 06:51 PM by Chris KC.)
A couple of quickies if I may:
- Should a 4-speed synchro box have a brass (bronze?) or a steel drain plug?
- Speedo drive thread (cable end) - 3/4" BSB?
Thanks, Chris
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
15-02-2020, 08:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 15-02-2020, 08:38 PM by Bob Culver.)
Brass on my car but some have been rethreaded to take a plumbing fitting. Covered quite recently.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,394 Threads: 106
Reputation:
28
Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Thanks Bob, just found that thread but it's mainly concerned with damage repair. I have both steel and brass plugs to choose from in my tin of gearbox bits and both have the same thread.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 882 Threads: 48
Reputation:
4
Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
Earlier ones were brass, later steel. I don't know when the change was made, probably sometime after 1937 as components were shared across the 10hp and Big 7 lines. The steel plugs were also used in the engine at about the same time.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
Reputation:
95
Location: Auckland, NZ
The Cornish Club table is interesting. Has anyone confirmed that the hot and cold tappet settings correspond? What is the original source of the cold settings? 360 lb in or 30 lbs ft seems to be a remarkable tension for 5/16 head studs. 20 lbs ft as the big ends seems more prudent. Excessive tensions distort cylinders and valve seats. broken studs can be very tedious to remedy. Is it the tension which causes the common crack near centre? Note how very conservative is the effective full advance timing for th the auto distributors. One inch is 11 deg on flywheel.