10-08-2019, 05:52 PM (This post was last modified: 10-08-2019, 05:56 PM by Duncan Grimmond.)
I had a 4 Cyl BSA trike 10 years ago and I couldn't corner fast enough to roll it because the doors flew open as the body distorted going into the bend! At the time the suggestion was to carry a sack of potatoes on the passenger seat.
The engine sits unfortunately high, most of the weight riding above the wheel centres and there is little you can do about this.
Been Kerfing and swearing today. After a few days making the seat frame and front floor sections I bit the bullet and had a go at fitting the side ply panels. These will be attacked with a hole and jig saw to make a ply skeleton over which some thin ply will be glued.
The ply is 12mm and even so needed "kerfing" cuts at about 3/4" to pull into the curve at the rear of the car. Next stage is to glue the kerfed ply and leave for a day or so before cutting into it. I'll be busy doing the other side and seeing if I can "Kerf" the scuttle top. There is quite a sharp curve here and I may have to build up by glueing thinner ply together.
12-08-2019, 10:14 PM (This post was last modified: 12-08-2019, 10:21 PM by Ian Williams.)
Bit late now 4mm or 5mm Ply would be adequate and would not need kerfing, you can laminate cockpit edges for strength, do this round a former and it will hold shape when the glue dries. I would make the scuttle top from aluminium, wiring and edge is easy, look at my thread for tips and ask if you need advice. I would take another look at the profile of your scuttle, Austin used a particular radius where the bonnet meets the scuffle, take a top profile if you can and try to ensure your lines are fair otherwise you risk a strange break line where the Bonnet ends. Not trying to be critical Howard just point out errors I have made in the past and which may help you. Crack on!
The scuttle curve was formed using my RK bonnet as a template so it should be similar to Austin's. The lines of the bonnet top, hinge and bottom continue straight across the scuttle. This does make for a narrow cockpit!
I've used 12mm ply to try and simulate ash framing. It will be more holes than ply when I've finished attacking it with the hole saw!. There is no steel to support the rear of the scuttle, rear bulkhead or the tail of the car. There will also be doors and I hope the thickness of the ply will act as a good frame for them.
I may resort to aluminium for the scuttle top and tail but I fancy having a go at an all plywood car al la "Gordon England". My previous special was aluminium on ash car.
The ply sides have been glued, removed from the car and sanded (to remove copies quantities of glue that oozed out when the sides were bent!). The sides have been re-fixed and three layers of 3.6mm ply bent individually (using a heat gun and water) to form the scuttle top. This has been glued and forms a quite strong laminated hoop across the front of the car. I've also spent some time "playing" with the double curvature rear section. It too will have three layers of 3.6 ply laminated. So far I've got the first layer in place and already its quite strong. It has been a bit fiddly cutting and bending the sections but I think the end result is OK.
Given the strength of the "shell" and being mindful of Ian's comments regarding ply thickness I don't think I'll need an external skin of thin ply. The fabric should easily span across the holes I will cut in the ply. I will probably put a very thin (2mm) ply skin inside the cockpit of the car for cosmetic reasons.
The pic shows the car to date with the outline of the door. I'm hoping to be able to remove the body shell without the subframe to fit the fabric covering. So once the door has been cut I will need some temporary support bars at the top of door height.
Are you sure you're going to be happy with the angle of the steering column? It looks to be the standard Saloon/Tourer angle rather than the shallower sports angle. In a sports car, the standard rake leads to a 'sit up and beg' look and quite an uncomfortable driving position unless you fit the seats at a Saloon/Tourer height and that rather defeats the object of the exercise. Lower rake Ulster or GE steering boxes are available or you can change the angle via a steering box wedge. Perhaps something to think about before you go further?
20-08-2019, 07:29 PM (This post was last modified: 20-08-2019, 07:32 PM by Duncan Grimmond.)
That is looking good Howard. Have you though of having just the one door on the N/S and half depth? It would reduce the weakening of the the side and with a folding step below would be a very 1920s sports cyclecar look...especially with a lower rake on the steering column.
