Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 21 Threads: 8
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Hi all.
Just thought I'd say hello. I'm new to Austin Sevens. Just bought an Ulster replica. Only got it yesterday. Paid way to much but it was love at first sight. Lots to learn. So far so good!
Cheers
Rich
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 532 Threads: 46
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Location: Oakley, Hants, UK
Car type: 1929 AD Tourer, 1930 Rosengart LR2, Rosengart LR4 Van 1938 APE Tourer (Opal)
Welcome to the land of sevens, great fun and all consuming. What area are you . Be sure to join your local club.
I am always interested in any information about Rosengart details or current owners.
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 21 Threads: 8
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Thanks for the welcome. I'll post some photos when I've had a chance to take some. In the meantime a quick question that must have been asked hundreds of time so feel free to refer me to an earlier post; the car has no water temp gauge, so I was thinking of sticking a calormeter on top of the radiator. They look nice but do they work? Good idea or unnecessary?
Cheers
Rich
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 629 Threads: 19
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Location: Sheffield South Yorks
Car type: 1932 RN saloon
Rich,
Calormeters work fine, but if you park up,make sure you take it off and put it somewhere out of view. Reckless, I’m sure that’s not you in the photo unless you have bought a new syrup.
Cheers,
Dave.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,200 Threads: 71
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If you buy a colormeter, do check it does work throughout its entire range. I've seen a lot that only seem to have the ability to get to 'Normal' and no further. I guess something to do with having spent 80 years registering that and maybe the mechanism seizes after that point. It's easy enough to do with a bowl of boiling water...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,419 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
If coolant/water is splashing out of the radiator cap then first of all check the coolant level - many tend to put too much in. The level on an RP type rad should not be any higher than the bottom of the curved section viewable through the cap. Secondly the overflow pipe should be clear. If both these are OK then there's no reason why anti-freeze mixture coolant cannot be used and the cap/rad shell interface sealed with a bit of clear silicone.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a calorimeter. It's just something else to worry about. If your cooling system is in good order then overheating shouldn't really be a problem.