Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 192 Threads: 76
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Hi,
I'm about to refurbish a starter motor bought off e-bay for my "Ulsteroid".
The pinion clip is broken and I've sourced a new one from Seven Workshop but I'm not clear how to remove the old one.
I've removed the split pin which secures the castellated nut but don't know how to hold the shaft still in order to loosen the nut.
Jamie at Seven Workshop didn't think it should be necessary to dismantle the motor and suggested striking the spanner sharply with a hammer but this doesn't have much effect.
Any recommendations?
Also, apart from a general clean up and paint is there anything else I should do as a matter of course. The brushes look OK but I can't actually try the motor out at present as my battery had died.
John.
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 697 Threads: 33
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Location: Lot region FRANCE
You can always give it a blip on 12 volts to test the motor- remember to hold it down firmly against the sudden burst of torque.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,417 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
To undo the castellated nut just hold the pinion in a soft jawed vice then undo the nut in the normal way. Everything else will then come off. Note the order of things as you take it apart.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
18-07-2019, 04:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-07-2019, 04:47 PM by John Mason.)
John, You need to take the armature out of the starter motor to do this. All you have to do is undo the two long screws that go the length of it and the end cap together with armature will come apart ( sometimes it will need a slight tap with a hammer to move it.) Then hold the armature in a vice with a piece of soft wood either side. Only just pinch it up tight lesser rather than more and it should hold enough to undo the nut. Re assembly is the same but in reverse order but you have to hold the brushed out away from the commutator whilst engaging the armature into the back end plate. Whilst the armature is out it is worth cleaning the commutator with a little petrol to remove the build up of any carbon deposits.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 557 Threads: 89
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Location: Deepest darkest Kent
18-07-2019, 05:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-07-2019, 05:32 PM by Robert Foreman.)
Reckers is spot on, clamp in some heavy duty soft jaws, remove split pin, nut and dismantle noting order. No need to dismantle the armature etc.
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 192 Threads: 76
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Thanks Guys,
I did as suggested and held the pinion in the jaws of my "Workmate" and then undid the castellated nut.
Once I was confident this was how others had done it and that there weren't any traps (it had crossed my mind the nut might have a left hand thread) I put a bit more force on the spanner and it came undone relatively easily.
Managed to replace the pinion clip, then wire brushed the outside then applied a coat of primer plus semi-gloss black. Very pleased with the outcome. Just hope it runs OK once it's on the car.
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,417 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
One of the best mods you can do on 6v starter is to run a dedicated earth cable direct from the battery to one of the bolts holding the starter to the crankcase
It really will help.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,416 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
I agree. Just route the cable in such a way that the insulation doesn't fret against the edge of a floor panel. And don't ask how I know...
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,417 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
I wouldn't "fret" about the earth cable chafing... ?
