Tracking

[Duncan Grimmond]

I have just checked the tracking of the car, a bit of toe-in. I attach pics of the set-up which is not a standard Austin 7 I believe.
The linking drop-arm seems to be held by clamps secured by pinch bolts and I can see no threaded part on either end. The links are attached with tapered cotter-pins with nuts (as per cycle pedals) and there is no clear line of sight to allow a straight punch to knock them out. There is also a brake pipe in the way.
All the nuts will move relatively easily but I cannot seem to shift the link member and don't want to resort to brute force and excessive heat.
Can anyone offer advice as to adjusting the tracking?

[Chris KC]

The track rod ends are threaded onto the end of the rod so that (in theory) if you free one end and loosen the pinch bolt you should be able to screw the ends in or out to adjust toe-in. If it's not been disturbed in a while expect each and every part to put up a fight. I'd start by drowning the ends in plus gas and sleeping on it.

[Hedd_Jones]

The trackrods straighten with time. If youve run out of thread you need to put a bit more kink in all 4 bends.

Easy done with a well secured vice and a scaffold pole

[Duncan Grimmond]

It seems I'm going to have to drive out those cotter pins then? B***er. I've just spent a couple of days last week on track rod ends etc on my Pembleton.
I'm away on holiday next week so I'll get some penetration fluid(diesel) onto everything and hope for a result on my return. I'll also have to make a swan-neck punch to drift them out unless anyone in the N Yorks area has one already...

Hedd said
"The trackrods straighten with time."

That would explain the lack of visible thread?

[Reckless Rat]

Take both steering arms off with the complete track rod and then you can do it all on the bench. Just undo the bolts and drive them out with a drift.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Take the whole assembly off by removing the large nuts on the drop arms.

Much easier to work on the various bits.

Heat will be necessary.



Simon

[Chris KC]

Yes I was going to say that too! And find something solid with a hole in it to support the end while you punch the cotter through.

You may very well find when you get to that stage that there is wear to be addressed too...

[Steve Jones]

Yes, Duncan. If you take the whole assembly of it's much easier to work on it on the bench. Also, note that on some assemblies, only one end is adjustable. If the thread on the cross shaft does bottom into the track rod, it can be that you need to shorten the threaded end slightly.

Steve

[Charles P]

Steering arms don't always come straight off with hydraulic backplates in place.
Drift the pins out using a box spanner and jack for support and take the whole track rod off leaving the steering arms in place . Cotters may be sacrificed

Charles

[Duncan Grimmond]

Take both steering arms off with the complete track rod and then you can do it all on the bench. Just undo the bolts and drive them out with a drift.

That sounds like the best plan. I'm not a great fan of grovelling on a concrete floor with rust and rubbish falling in my eyes while my back aches!
If they don't come off easily I'll have to revert to the big hammer and sacrifice the cotters. As with all this stuff, the most difficult bit is to get things to stand still while you hit them!