Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 191 Threads: 76
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Hi,
Although I built my Ulster replica some years ago I have never had a starter motor so to cover the opening at the top of the gearbox / bell-housing I have a later Ruby type sheet steel cover.
I have now collected most of the parts to add a starter motor but the cut-out in the front bulkhead which just clears the Ruby style cover won't allow the cast alloy starter motor mounting cover to fit as when I try to locate it over the flywheel there isn't enough vertical clearance.
I am removing the engine and gearbox today and will obviously need to cut away some more of the bulkhead whilst this is out but it's very difficult to judge how much is needed and I'm also concerned that the throttle cross-shaft passes over this area which restricts how much could be easily cut away.
At the moment there is probably 20 - 25 mm of the sloping section of the bulkhead left above the cut-out (ie. the part of the bulkhead through which the pedal arms pass). I could relatively easily cut this away up to the point where the sloping part joins the vertical face of the bulkhead which then runs up behind the fuel tank but is this going to be enough?
Not sure how anyone can advise me but I'm very reluctant to have to repeatedly remove the engine / gearbox just to see if it's enough.
Any advice?
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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If it's a non-standard scuttle/bulkhead then difficult for anyone else to judge, particularly without some photos to better explain your plight. Was the replica from a known manufacturer like Gould or Rod Yates, as that might chime with someone that has one..
It sounds like the bulkhead is for a front facing starter engine?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 124 Threads: 15
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Location: Southern Cotswolds
Car type: '33 RP, '36 RTC Special, '39 Cambridge Special, '34 Wolseley Hornet Special, '50 Citroen Traction Avant
Only a suggestion, but why not after having removed the engine, fit the rear facing starter and resting the engine on two pieces of 4 x 2" reverse engineer with that well known CAD Kellog sytem a flat vertical section in the rough position of the bulkhead, which is referenced off the false chassis timber. Once it fits nicely make the profile of the engine and starter from the Kellog CAD drawing and hold that up against the bulhead, mark around and it will be within a 1 or 2% tolerence I would think. Possibly "simples"? Unless that is I have grossly underestimated the difficulty, in which I suggest angle grinder mayhem.
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 250 Threads: 2
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Re the plate illustrated above - the original Ulsters (and I think the contemporary Boat-tails) had a similar panel attached. It's possible that one or more of our Cherished Suppliers has them for sale? If not, anyone can contact me for measurements & details of my panel, which I copied from what I assumed was an original one. ausevenoz@gmail.com Cheers, Bill in Oz
Joined: Apr 2018 Posts: 191 Threads: 76
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Thanks for all the suggestions.
The body-shell was made some years ago by Vintage Wings and, I believe, was based on a genuine car so it's probably fairly accurate.
I think I will try the Kellog CAD suggestion and simply make up a dummy bulkhead from card to trim away until it fits. The only real issue will be getting and maintaining the correct angle between the vertical and sloping portions of the bulkhead but we'll see how easy or otherwise it may be.
In anticipation I'm also going to contact Bill Sheehan as a removable panel would probably be a distinct advantage in the future.
I'm not sure why removing the gear box and engine separately would be easier. I'm not intending to remove the clutch pedal but only take off the foot pad so I shouldn't have to disturb the return spring. I know this can be done with a bit of fiddling as it's the approach I have taken in the past.
John.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,377 Threads: 105
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
If it were me I'd put the two covers side by side on the bench while the engine's still in and estimate how much added clearance is needed. It is then still relatively easy to assess whether this is available with reference to the face where they mount. By the way I have recently been discovering how easy it is to cut thin sheet steel with a jig saw.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 678 Threads: 17
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Location: The far North East of England
Car type: 1934 Austin 7 AVH Van (in bits & incomplete!), 1936 Morris 8 Series I Tourer
Chris,
What blades are you using to cut thin sheet steel with your jig saw - I've a Bosch (blue professional range) GST 60 PBE, 550W, 500-3100/min.
Jeff.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 381 Threads: 16
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Location: Port Elizabeth, Sunny South Africa
Car type: '26 Chummy, '28 Top Hat, '33 Type "65", single seaters
Why not make the covers from aluminium sheet ?? Much easier to work than steel and it can be bumped and formed around things with very simple tools
Aye
Greig
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,377 Threads: 105
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Bosch PST 700E 500W + TE118A blade.
I used mine at the weekend to cut out a blank for a Brooklands 'silencer' from 20 SWG steel sheet, no problem at all, though you do want to keep it pressed flat against a properly supported workpiece, don't use it like a knife. You can cut with fair accuracy and without distorting the sheet, just needs a bit of de-burring. Much like a hacksaw, don't expect to cut a tight corner radius with it. And do please try it out on some scrap before attacking your floor!!
I was thinking of the jigsaw more for 'relieving' the floor panel, if you can get access, though I'm sure it will rough out a cover in either material.
