Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
02-04-2019, 03:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-04-2019, 04:00 PM by John Mason.)
Hi to all, I have an oil leak which I suspect is coming from the rear main seal ( Some years ago I changed to a modern type lip seal). I think this is where it is leaking. I intend to tackle the job by removing the gearbox out through the passenger side of the car something that I previously did when renewing the clutch. This saves time as the rad, exhaust and cowle do not have to be removed. My problem will be trying to stop the engine turning when undoing the flywheel nut.
Does anybody have details of a home made tool that bolts to the flywheel that can be used to hold it firm whilst both undoing and tightening the flywheel nut.
Just as an after thought does having a new Phoenix crank effect the new lip type seals.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
Reputation:
10
Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I usually put a bolt or 5/16" stud through the radial hole in the flywheel periphery. As you turn the nut the stud rests against the top of the housing.
Robert Leigh
Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 5,445 Threads: 231
Reputation:
67
Location: Scotchland
John,
I have a specially made tool for exactly this job - if you PM I will arrange to send it to you, share the design.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 739 Threads: 13
Reputation:
5
Hi John,
Not having a SKF speedi seal on the flywheel boss will tear up lip seals ( available from most bearing suppliers. )
The type of crankshaft will not affect the seal as its the flywheel that runs in the seal.
The speedy seal part number is 99186
I just happen to have one ready for installation.
Cheers Dickie
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Dickie65, Thanks .for the information. I have looked at the SKF website re speedi seals and cannot see how it will fit on the end of the crankshaft then allow the flywheel to fit as it will increase the diameter of the shaft. Also the crank is relatively new and has no wear or marks on it. Thanks however and now I understand how the seal works. It maybe that my new crank does not allow my flywheel to go down the taper as far as the old one thus stopping it sealing correctly.
John Mason.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,534 Threads: 60
Reputation:
20
I just turned the boss on the flywheel to a clean diameter that suited an available seal size. No need for a Speedi-Sleeve
Charles
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 739 Threads: 13
Reputation:
5
John,
The speedi sleeve does not go on the crankshaft !!!
The oil seal runs on the flywheel boss which is rough turned which will ruin a lip seal.
Lip seals are designed to run on a ground shaft.
The speedi seal goes on the flywheel boss to give a smooth surface for the lip seal.
The crankshaft remains unaltered so everything will fit as normal.
SKF do not have a page for A7 owners.
Hope this clarifies things a bit.
Cheers Dickie
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 476 Threads: 63
Reputation:
2
Location: West/North Devon England
To help all to visualise, you might need to explain that the seal pushes into the rear of the crankcase with the lips pointing into the crankcase?
A photo would be good.