Front inner hub

[Andy Bennett]

With oil in the front brakes and a clear breakdown of the seal between inner and outer hubs I decided to remove hubs, replace worn and contaminated brake shoes and replace the seal between inner and outer hubs.

First side went perfectly, small bearing stayed with the outer hub and larger bearing stayed with inner hub. 

I followed the prescribed procedure using correct hub puller to loosen outer then reattach and pull inner. All came apart with relative ease and went back together well.

Feeling pleased with myself I started on second side. Not so good.

Outer housing moved easily but small bearing remained on hub. reattached and locked in place with wheel nuts but inner hub would not shift. 
Removed small bearing from hub with gentle pull from 3 legged puller. No sign of damage.

Now I was left with the the inner hub moving back/away from the bearing but the inner shell of bearing locked solid on the hub.

I tried again with correct hub puller, it felt like all was beginning to move when suddenly realised it was the outer hub face which was distorting, so it was locked against inner hub at the wheel studs but bending away inbetween.



I have a spare complete hub assembly (thankfully). 
However, it has the inner and outer bearings secured within the outer hub, so I can't simply pop it on the existing inner on the car (with its stuck larger bearing).

Hoping you are still following this:
I would like to get the old hub/bearing off to make it easier to get the new brake shoes on and then replace with the complete spare hub set.
The alternative would be to drift out the bearings from the spare outer hub and use that with the existing stuck on inner. But that leaves me with trying to get brake shoes on the had way and hoping that the replacement outer hub fits with the stuck on inner.

Am I down to good old heat on the bearing stuck on the hub and  then more brute force or am I missing something more subtle?

thanks
Andy

[Bob Culver]

I am not sure if I follow but I gather the large bearing is stuck on the stub axle? It is curious if anyone has Loctited it as is locked rigid by the stub axle nut and does not wear loose anyway. (I take it not a very early car with taper seatings!)

The large bearing must be good fit in at least one of the hub halves. With any gasket fitted and the steel washer for the felt in place, the larger bearing must be clamped. Can check with a vernier calliper. If end clearance will eventually move, wear hub, and allow tilt of the wheel.

Seems it may be difficult to avoid distorting the hub flanges or breaking the studs. Rather obvious with your trade, but can it not be levered with two pry bars?

Can turn a heavy plate which fits over the studs to beef the outer flange when pulling.

When all apart view stub axle for cracks.

[David Stepney]

Andy,

Try fitting the puller and doing the centre bolt up as tight as it will go without distorting anything and then giving the centre bolt a sharp blow with a heavy hammer. Tighten the bolt again and repeat until it comes off. And yes, warming the bearing up a bit will help.

[Andy Bennett]

Thanks both.
I had a cup of tea and left it alone for a while.
All is now done.
I went it at a lateral way, in that I was worried about terminally damaging the rear hub half/bearing as I had already done to the front half (two 2 foot pry bars did nothing).
in the end I fiddled the new brake shoes into place using a crochet hook so that I could leave the rear hub in situ.
I then drove out the 2 bearings from the replacement front half of the hub by driving the small on onto the large one and pushing them through. I then pushed the original small bearing into the spare front hub half (the spare one was a little rough so decided to stick with the Hoffman original which I know to be good).

The replacement front half then went back easily onto the hub with new gasket and wellseal and all was well.

Phew and thanks again for comments, just wriiting it all down made me step back and have a think.

Andy

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Supplementary question:
does anyone know the thread for the grease hole in the front half of the hub. The replacement half seems to have a chewed thread so I can't get the stub 'bolt' into it and so need to clean it through. it doesn't seem to be a standard BSF from my tap collection and looks finer, perhaps a metric?

cheers
Andy

[rubyman]

On my Ruby ARR the thread is 1/8 BSP

[Andy Bennett]

Ah thanks

[Bob Culver]

It suffices to just pack the races with grease unless going wading. Filling the hubs as originally leads to trouble, esp with original felt seals.
It is still a mystery why so tight. Have others experienced? Many stub axles sport jaw marks etc from the attention of "mechanics" but would not account for.

[Andy Bennett]

Thanks Bob
I took that from previous advice here so have just made sure that the bearings are well greased and left at that.
I did fall short of heat which might have loosened it. hopefully I will never have to find out.
Andyt