"cylinder head removal kit"

[James Anderson]

Final report...I promise! Engine is back together, used one of Tony Betts's new HC Gaskets fitted like a dream, 50mph + performance restored, no smoke/steam from exhaust, should be fine for Amberley Chalk Pits Museum Show this Sunday (if you haven't been really worth a visit) but car/wheels needs a clean! Thanks once again to all contributors.

[JonE]

A question re head extraction via drilled out spark plugs to hold threaded rod to lever over something... can one do it with 14mm plugs or are they too small? (Don't have an issue but wondering whether to make something up for future to keep with the 18mm items).

[Phil Kingdom]

Yes you can use 14mm plugs, I used a lathe to remove the bulge above the nut part, then the ceramic part will come out easily. I put a 10mm thread down the middle and use either studding or a 10mm Hilti eye bolt that can also be used to lift the engine.

[JonE]

Thankyou - will find grinder!... hope that my other studding will work although probably best to make up some new. Re. the eye bolts, is it ok to lift from the head without taking pressure underneath too? Was wondering whether it would be too much pressure on head studs.

[Colin Wilks]

Hi Jon
I lifted my engine and gearbox with a single eye bolt in number three cylinder, which gives a useful angle for extraction. No problems encountered. I rigged a small chain block from the lintel over the garage door, lifted the engine and pushed the car away from under it.

[dickie65]

Someone
It might just be me drains the water out undo's the nuts a bit and starts the engine.
( The engine self stops once the head is loose )
Its naughty but can work.
The other extreme has been to remove the block with the head in place and use a block of wood and a lump hammer.
This method is reserved for barn find engines. ( or in my late fathers case tin shed at the bottom of the garden find engines )
If the head is badly stuck new studs are required anyway.