Tonneau cover

[Jays]

I was going to have a tonneau cover made for my Ulster Rep but then someone mentioned that he though one off an MGB fitted ?.  Does anyone know if that is true....before I take the plunge one way or another?

[AllAlloyCup]

You might be able to modify an MGB one but I doubt if it would fit directly.
Normally tonneaux are normally custom made to get a tight fit and well shaped to roll off
any water. Plus it’s a good idea to have a storm flap over the zip as that where
The water usually gets in , as most folk like the tonneau to split and keep the passenger side covered
when only the driver is in the car.

I’m about to get one made for the AllAlloyCup ....

Regards
Bill G

[Chris KC]

It's pretty easy to make an adequately functional one yourself if you have access to a sewing machine.

[Jays]

I did make a half tonneau for my Morgan. Worked out well apart from wearing out the sewing machine...my fault for incorporating piping.

I think on reflection why spoil the car with a cobbled MGB one....I’ll make one up myself. I hope my partner doesn’t need her sewing machine ?

[AllAlloyCup]

Ideally your sewing machine should have “walking foot”
and be able to accept a piping attachment.

Regards

Bill G

[Chris KC]

I did mine on an ancient Frister & Rossmann hand driven machine I got for £15 from Oxfam. Solid as a rock and you can go as slow as you like. It won't zig-zag but piping foot available on eBay.

Use polyester (not nylon) upholstery thread and a leather needle.

[Jays]

I’ve decided to get a professional to make my tonneau cover....not sure my partner will be too happy at abusing her sewing machine. I’m going to use Simon Laxton and as I can’t get the car to him, I’m making a suitable template.
I’m not sure about how much overlap to give for the fasteners....is anyone able to post a photo of a tonneau cover fitted to give me an idea?

[squeak]

In marking out your template first decide where your clips are going to go. There will be one at the back of the zip and 2 at the front, there will be one on each (corner, I use the term loosely for if this is a large radius you may space 2 closer together ). A handspan (octave) apart for the others, bearing in mind you don't want to rest your arm on one.
Now drill your clip holes, to which you will screw your template. Keep tension front to back and let the sides fall loosely to the clip(screw). Mark your final hole positions and use the template to mark out actual fabric to be used, screw this back on your car to check fit and punch holes in your cover. When the tonneau comes back from the sewer( that's s o o wer), you will have more success fitting clips to these accurate holes.
Many cars have a steering wheel protruding above the bodyline and you may need a dart or pocket here, a dart is simpler and can terminate at a clip. Be sure to mark the ACTUAL sew line and then ALLOW an extra allowance of say 10mm . 
You have asked how much overlap( I presume you mean body overlap) , I would aim for 50mm.
Good luck   Russell

[Chris KC]

I'd venture that it's the positioning of the clips more than anything else which determines the fit - snug or otherwise - of the cover; especially if it's being done by mail order as the upholsterer has no means of checking it.

This boils down largely to the availability of suitable mounting points. On my Ulster rep I put one lift-the-dot post through each of the three clips which secures the rubber cockpit side trims; 5 in a straight line across the deck behind the seats, roughly equidistant between the seat back and spare wheel cover; and 4 along the wooden in-fill between screen and scuttle. (It's these latter four I would change if I had a better idea, as fitment to a horizontal face would work better I think).

On an Ulster rep the cover will indeed 'foul' the top of the steering wheel, but I was able to make mine with enough slack to simply sit on top of it, not wanting the extra complication of an inset and the additional leak path that entails. I didn't fit a zip for the same reasons. I use the cover simply to protect the car interior when the car is parked, and as an occasional picnic blanket.

My cover certainly doesn't sit 'drum tight', but being vinyl is doesn't let water through and any collected rain is simply poured off when the cover is removed.

I'm actually in the throes of making a replacement for mine, which has put in 30 years' service now and has torn here and there around the fasteners, can post a photo later if of interest.

["Slack Alice" Simon]

I would make a trial cover in the heaviest material you dare to use on your home machine.

Even if that is just an old sheet you will learn a lot.

If you really really don't have access to a machine you can use glue or pins to replicate seams.

You can use real fasteners, and think not twice but three times before deciding the final position of the ones attached to the car.

You cannot easily un-drill a hole.

And often people use many fasteners when half the number will do.

My Cambridge tonneau has just four.