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Restoring a Top Hat
#51
Yes, these were the retrofit extensions. They had been very badly retrofitted as well, the holes in the side members drilled in the wrong position and the rivets that have to be removed from the rear crossmember had also removed some of the chassis! Mind you, doing the retrofit with the body still in position as recommended by the service journal............
The retrofit chassis extensions were first mandated for saloons in late 1926 but began to be fitted by the factory to all cars in 1927; my Chummy had the same pattern extensions rivetted to the chassis with a production date of September/October '27.

All now put back to rights!
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#52
Great job, I like it when a plan comes together.
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#53
You’ve got me worried now, as my early chasis has NO extensions
But the Cup body relies on cantilevering the rear body from
the rear cross member. However the body frame is pretty strong
And fewer mounting points was part of GE’s philosophy.

Great work on rescuing that chassis, it’ll last 100 years now!!

Regards
Bill G
Based near the Scottish Border,
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#54
Here are the extensions I have Hedd...


   

   
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#55
They look more substantial than the later riveted ones!
What is the thickness, looks to be greater than 1/8"
Also look reasonably straightforward to fabricate new.
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#56
I think that I still have a drawing for these - I'll see if I can find it. I made & fitted a pair to my Chummy >40 years ago.
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#57
We've got the 1924-27 bolt on chassis extensions on the shelf.
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#58
Oh dear. Opened up the axle drain plug today, look what came out. 94 year old oil/grease mixture.


   


I would be interested to get peoples view on a couple of things:

a) What to do next. I could:

  1.  Strip the axle completely, bearing in mind it's a thrust bearing and shims type axle, wash out all the remaining grease/oil, rebuild and adjust. 35+ hours?
  2.  Part strip the axle (side casing off, crown wheel + diff out), clean out most of the remaining lubricant, reassemble, refill with 140HD and change after 50 miles.
  3.  Not strip at all, leave to drain for a week, fill with 140HD and change after 50 miles.
  4.  Not strip but fill with diesel, turn vigorously with an electric motor for an hour, drain, fill with 140HD, change after 10 miles and again after 50 miles.



b) 140HD in these early axles. 


The Austin Motor Co. started filling axles with oil in June 1929, stating that:


 "It is not desirable to use oil for lubricating any of the axles which left our works with a mixture of grease and oil, as slight modifications were made to the axles at the time oil was adopted, to render the oil retaining devices as far as possible immune from leakage. The result of using oil in one of these axles would possibly mean leakage of oil, with the consequent necessity for more frequent replenishment. From a lubricating point of view, however there is no reason why oil should not be used in any axle, however old the car; it is purely a matter of the oil retaining qualities"
(Service journal, Vol 3, No4, November/December 1929)

However, I can't find changes in the parts list to the axle (it was a screw-in torque tube axle, in use from May 1929) to reflect these "slight modifications". Was it just that as oil hadn't been tested in the earlier axle, the Austin Motor Co. were reluctant to say it was OK?

I ran my original 1927 Chummy axle on 140HD for some years before changing the entire axle to a 30/31 type and it didn't leak anywhere. Noisy, yes but no leaks.

What's the perceived wisdom folks?
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#59
Option 4 for me. If the result is too noisy for you, option 1 follows

Ive a few friends with all sorts of vintage tack which tend to leak modern oils out of the primitive seals etc. A lot of them use STP as it makes the lubricant more viscous and thus leak less.
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#60
I have just done a D type axle with exactly that sort of goo in it, not been apart for at least 30 years I reckon.

I try not to dismantle where I don't have to, but having washed the thing out with about 8 lots of petrol which was still coming out, dark brown with flakes of stuff in it, I took the whole thing to bits.

I was glad I did, the brown goo was all the way to the axle ends, took scraping with a length of pipe and final pull through with rags, and I am sure I didn't get it all out.

In the process I found that during the standing period the a/c diff bearings had corroded at the bottom - even with all that goo in them.

Maybe washing with hot diesel would have done it, I doubt it.

Next bit: can I get it back together?   Tomorrow's job, if the bits arrive.

Simon
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