Wheel hub bearing removal

[Biddlecombe]

Peter
google "a7ca archive" and you can look in the archive and print out the spares list (888 or 888A depending on chassis number) (a7ca = Austin7ClubsAssociation.)
That was a change year so not sure whether you have the 3 piece (banjo) axle case or the 2 piece (D type). Hope it is the 2 piece as easier to set diff carrier end float using the built in threaded serrated adjusters and no requirement for shims. All parts of the car have their part numbers stamped on or cast on in raised letters/numerals so you should find on the back axle the date, ratio and part number (part number on each part of the 2 piece axle case) It is on the housing that the diff sits in and may need a bit of paint removal if previously thickly painted over.  The pinion toothed end has numbers on it...ratio and a number related to the meshing and thus shims between torque tube and casing.  The crown wheel will have matching/related numbers.....something to read about.
Good websites are Cornwall A7 club; Bristol; Southampton; Dorset; London....+ others.  Cornwall club has the info on setting up axle if I remember.
Don't be afraid to ask...we all had to start somewhere.....and I am still learning at 74.

Dennis

Thanks Dennis, Pic of diff here. I'm 71 and just getting started!!!!!

   

[Biddlecombe]

The Austin Seven Companion when dealing with leak of grease onto linings, states that ".....and the use of the wrong type of grease in the hubs.
I have got Comma GR 2500G Multi Purpose Lithium Grease and Comma CV500G Constant Velocity Lithy-Moly Grease are either of these OK for the hubs or should one or other be avoided at all costs or should I be purchasing a different grease please?

[Steve Jones]

All you need is a good general purpose grease. I've used the first one you mention but at the moment, I think I'm on a Millers version. It all depends what they've got when I buy it. The biggest reason that hub grease on Sevens gets onto brake linings is over greasing the hubs. The original handbooks said that this should be done at regular intervals but all that does is fill the hub with grease to the point that, when full, the grease finds its way past the hub seals/gaskets and onto the linings. Grease the wheel bearings when fitting them, put a small amount in the hub outer, fit the hub and forget about it. It's the way the hub bearings are lubricated on your modern and how often do you re-grease those?

Steve

[AustinWood]

I use a sealed bearing. No need to lubricate and also help seal against stray back axle oil.

[Dennis Nicholas]

In the absence of AFMT treated grease I prefer to use CV grease with molybdenum disulphide.....moly.  I believe that if the grease base dries out/becomes spent then the moly will still provide a slippery surface.

Looks like you have the 2 piece axle 8:42 = 5.125:1 ratio.
The earlier 3 piece was 9:44 or 4.9:1.
Unless someone has changed things around.  If you are lucky enough to have the 8:45 = 5.625:1 which was in the van and sports then you could sell the crown + pinion to someone who races/does trials for lots of money and buy yourself a new 5.25:1 set. 

Dennis

[Tony Press]

In the absence of AFMT treated grease I prefer to use CV grease with molybdenum disulphide.....moly.  I believe that if the grease base dries out/becomes spent then the moly will still provide a slippery surface.

Looks like you have the 2 piece axle 8:42 = 5.125:1 ratio.
The earlier 3 piece was 9:44 or 4.9:1.
Unless someone has changed things around.  If you are lucky enough to have the 8:45 = 5.625:1 which was in the van and sports then you could sell the crown + pinion to someone who races/does trials for lots of money and buy yourself a new 5.25:1 set. 

Dennis

Don't use grease with molybdenum disulphide in ball or roller bearings- you want the rolling elements to roll not slide ! 

Ok to use in plain bearings and pot joint universals.

Use good quality lithium based grease around No 2 or 3 consistency. 

Or as suggested, use sealed bearings.

Cheers, Tony 

[Biddlecombe]

  5184oZ0QBZL.jpg (Size: 38.46 KB / Downloads: 176)

Is this OK?

[Tony Press]

Is this OK?

Looks like a good lithium based multi purpose grease No 2 - should be OK.

Tony P.

[Biddlecombe]

OK. So I have the spring pin out, 6 bolts removed from banjo end and all clear with the nearside axle housing hanging. BUT I can't seem to shift it, when I read the books it looks as if I might have to remove the whole axle just to put a new seal in???
I have tried gentle tapping at the brake end. Do I have to remove complete axle or a bit heavier tapping. HELP!!

[Steve Jones]

I've just read back through this thread and whilst I can see lots about replacing the hub seals, I can't find any reference to you replacing the diff inner seals. However, from the above, assume you are doing that also. It is possible, just, to remove the banjo half with the axle in situ with a bit of jiggling but it's far easier to remove the full axle. In any case, you'll need to do that if you're changing the seal on the other side as well. The reason it won't move any further than you've got it so far is that the diff bearing is a light press fit into the axle half and has to be released. Doing that as you've got things risks bending half shafts, damaging the differential housing etc. etc. Much better and easier in the long run to remove the axle.

Steve