Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement? ?

[Paul t]

1937 Ruby Saloon ARR: 
Following a radiator refurb & replacement of  side branch studs / gasket I added antifreeze & checked for leaks.
All appeared to be in order. However after a few days I found the sump was filling up. The antifreeze had presumeably found a low spot between the cylinder head / block / gasket where before no such problem had been experienced. 
I am yet to remove the head. 
As there was no leak prior to the introduction of the antifreeze will I get away with just replacing the gasket? 
When replacing the gasket is a jointing compound required? I have been advised that greasing the gasket is an option which helps with future separation of the gasket from the head /block . 
Some advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.

[Chris KC]

1937 Ruby Saloon ARR: 
Following a radiator refurb & replacement of  side branch studs / gasket I added antifreeze & checked for leaks.
All appeared to be in order. However after a few days I found the sump was filling up. The antifreeze had presumeably found a low spot between the cylinder head / block / gasket where before no such problem had been experienced. 
I am yet to remove the head. 
As there was no leak prior to the introduction of the antifreeze will I get away with just replacing the gasket? 
When replacing the gasket is a jointing compound required? I have been advised that greasing the gasket is an option which helps with future separation of the gasket from the head /block . 
Some advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.

Are you sure you disturbed nothing else Paul? I don't have any experience of using anti-freeze in an Austin Seven but I have heard the same i.e. that it's quite good at 'finding' leaks, so perhaps your analysis is right.

Personally I put head gaskets on with a smear of grease on both sides, always have done.

I also always do up the head nuts in correct sequence, gradually and with a torque wrench. I re-tighten after the first run, once the engine is stone cold again, 20lbft. 

Is your head cast iron or alloy (or indeed other)? Alloy heads warp very easily and in any case it may be worth checking flatness once you get it off. Just don't machine any more off it than you absolutely must.

[Nick Turley]

1937 Ruby Saloon ARR: 
Following a radiator refurb & replacement of  side branch studs / gasket I added antifreeze & checked for leaks.
All appeared to be in order. However after a few days I found the sump was filling up. The antifreeze had presumeably found a low spot between the cylinder head / block / gasket where before no such problem had been experienced. 
I am yet to remove the head. 
As there was no leak prior to the introduction of the antifreeze will I get away with just replacing the gasket? 
When replacing the gasket is a jointing compound required? I have been advised that greasing the gasket is an option which helps with future separation of the gasket from the head /block . 
Some advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.

I used to grease head gaskets lightly and fit and only very occasionally experienced a leak.
Now I use Copper silicone (halfords) sparingly on the good advice of Steve Jones, I then leave 24 hrs before filling with coolant.
 Since the change of procedure never had a leak on any car head gasket (done quite a lot).
Torquing down is important 20ft lb cold and a re-torque after the first run.
Your torque wrench needs to be good at that sort of range ( I use a small Snap On).
I have come to the conclusion that the  "modern" seven gasket's middle sandwich is harder than originally,
so they might be a little less forgiving. 
I might be talking rubbish here !

[John Mason]

I have read this string with interest as I was always taught to retighten cast iron heads when hot. Not cold only alloy heads to be retighten cold. What is the opinion of other forum readers as to what is correct hot or cold. I have never had problems doing it hot

John Mason

[Hedd_Jones]

Ive just changed a head because of oil leaking into the coolant. There was a bloody great lump missing out of the head. So ive put another one on.

Ive used a new gasket and copper silicone. Its had water in it. No antifreeze yet. All seemed ok.

I have no intention of re-tightening once hot

[john williams]

1937 Ruby Saloon ARR: 
Following a radiator refurb & replacement of  side branch studs / gasket I added antifreeze & checked for leaks.
All appeared to be in order. However after a few days I found the sump was filling up. The antifreeze had presumeably found a low spot between the cylinder head / block / gasket where before no such problem had been experienced. 
I am yet to remove the head. 
As there was no leak prior to the introduction of the antifreeze will I get away with just replacing the gasket? 
When replacing the gasket is a jointing compound required? I have been advised that greasing the gasket is an option which helps with future separation of the gasket from the head /block . 
Some advice on the above would be greatly appreciated.

Before you remove the cylinder head, check there is no water leaking from the side manifold or bottom hose into the dip stick hole. It has happened before.

[Paul t]

Thank to all. The head is cast iron.
As I only intend to use the car during the spring /summer I will not be adding any further antifreeze. I intend to drain coolant when standing car up.
Rain water is now my preferred coolant choice.
I also have access to reverse osmosis water. Has anyone had experience of using this option?

[AllAlloyCup]

If you have removed studs did you use thread sealant
when you replaced them.

Some studs go into the water jacket.

I’m sure this has been listed as a source of leaks on previous
threads?

Regards

Bill G

[Paul t]

Thankyou all. Just to answer some of the salient points"
No external leaks seen when using H2O; add antifreeze no external leaks but sump level rising.
Studs have not been replaced.
I will use some copper silicone when reassembling.

[Colin Reed]

Hi Paul,
When you have the head off remember there are TWO FACES that have to be flat the head & the block so you might need to skim Both, look for corrosion around water jacket holes as this will reduce the area for the gasket to seal on.
When Torqueing down I use an inch pound wrench set at 240 inch/pounds they are more accurate on smaller settings.start off at 5foot pounds working from the centre to the outside and workup in small increments to the 20 ft lbs.
Personally I do them cold and don't touch them again.

Hope some of that helps
Colin
NZ