Switching from 6V to 12V, voltage regulator?!

[borchi1]

Dear all,

greeting from Italy! I am restoring an Austin Seven special and i would like to do 12V conversion.

I would like to keep the original Dinamo, as it has been rebuilt freshly, but what about the voltage regulator should i use?

If i recall correctly, i had read somewhere about the use of an electronic "modern" voltage regulator 12V to install instead of the original
unit that should fit.

Any suggestion or "way to do it" would be greatly appreciated

Thanks to all the contributors!
Emanuel

[Zetomagneto]

Dear all,

greeting from Italy! I am restoring an Austin Seven special and i would like to do 12V conversion.

I would like to keep the original Dinamo, as it has been rebuilt freshly, but what about the voltage regulator should i use?

If i recall correctly, i had read somewhere about the use of an electronic "modern" voltage regulator 12V to install instead of the original
unit that should fit.

Any suggestion or "way to do it" would be greatly appreciated

Thanks to all the contributors!
Emanuel

Hi Emanuel, convert your dynamo to 2 brush and use a DVR 3 regulator from Dynamo Regulators, I have just done this one my cars and did the same to my 12/4 6 years ago.
If your dynamo has a resistance winding around one of the field windings this will havie to be disconnected.I stayed 6 volt and amperage restricted to 8 amps.When you order the DVR you can stipulate how many amps you want.
http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr3.php
Best Wishes Gene

[borchi1]

Thank you very very much for your help and feedback! 
One question: do i have to order with 12V as i am going to 12V or do i have to order 6V as my dinamo is originally 6V?
Stupid question maybe but better asking than being a victim of my ignorance =)

[Ruairidh Dunford]

I have never converted to 12v so have no idea of the costs involved with the change over etc.

It may be worth your while investigating costs against the purchase of a 12v Dynamator (use both gears from your original dynamo!), as it does not require a control box, everything is built into it.

See here: http://www.accuspark.co.uk/DynamatorA7.html

[Bob Culver]

The many conversions were covered exhaustively on the old website.
The most basic involve no changes except of the cutout operation and with field current suitably limited by one means or another. The latter is critical as original field volts less than 6.
Many set up for little more than igniton current and rely on a regulated bench charger to maintain the battery.
As with the original car, many cope without a voltage regulator, but modern batteries are esp sensitive to overcharging.
With provision to suitably limit field current, some have used electromechanical regulators but the pulsed action is reckoned to rattle the timing gears.
I dunno about the specialised electronic regulators but these apparently operate without the 3rd brush and contrive to keep field current within bounds. Unless you have elctrical knowledge, lotsa patience, and no money would seem good option.

[borchi1]

Big thanks to all for this excellent resources

[Peter Clayton]

Big thanks to all for this excellent resources

Just copied this, which I posted a few years ago, from the old web site, 
A bit of a hornet's nest this one. When working well 6 volt systems are fine,but they seem to be at the limit of many tolerances and it would appear that it takes very little to cause system to malfunction. The conversion that I made to 12 volts has given no trouble at all in the last five years. 
I converted my RP to 12 volts as I needed better lighting when driving to & from work,A VAST IMPROVEMENT. Better starting,acceleration under load,charge rate,can use LED bulbs and other accessories such as GPS CD's etc.
The conversion was easy.The existing 6 volt dynamo, modified to two brush operation, will easily produce the 12 volts required and the voltage control is by a electronic unit under the dash out of sight.A change of bulbs,coil,battery and you're done.Not a difficult job,control unit purchased from Dave Lindsley   (http://www.davelindsley.co.uk/ )   & cost in 2010 was £106.& includes instructions on dynamo mods, again very easy.A lot cheaper than fitting non standard looking parts.The only visual difference is the dynamo brush cover which I changed for some fine wire mesh to aid cooling. The only item that doesn't operate is the fuel gauge which didn't work on 6v either, I'm currently looking for a gauge to replace the dash instrument to match up with a modified "Mini" in tank sender,but will always rely on the dipstick method.

[Chris KC]

I still struggle to understand why people do this, and have no real interest in getting into a discussion about it. For what it's worth though Emanuel - if you are motivated by doubts - the same amount of effort spent sorting out the present 6V system would give you a perfectly adequate result.

[borchi1]

Dear Chris, the main problem is that i need 12v for the tuned engine distributor, the 6V is not giving me adequate sparks.
The engine runs strong with 12V but has problems with 6V. And also the starter, at 12V goes OK when needs to work, but too weak
for the compressed tuned engine to be started on 6V.

[Peter Clayton]

Dear Chris, the main problem is that i need 12v for the tuned engine distributor, the 6V is not giving me adequate sparks.
The engine runs strong with 12V but has problems with 6V. And also the starter, at 12V goes OK when needs to work, but too weak
for the compressed tuned engine to be started on 6V.

Just reading your reply to Chris and seeing you have a tuned engine, if you have a raised compression,it may well be worth considering having the starter motor up rated for 12 volts. the standard 6 volt unit will operate on twelve but might struggle against high compressions.