Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 95 Threads: 3
Reputation:
0
For that reason, I too removed the sports cam from my 65 as it was too aggressive, cracking the case and causing leaks. I replaced it with a Bonewell cam.
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 65 Threads: 14
Reputation:
0
Location: Kenilworth, Warwickshire
@ John - that's a bit of lateral thinking that I hadn't had! Removing the block/head assy with pistons still in place is a genius idea - no faffing around down a dark hole trying to get pair of pistons back in their bores putting the thing back together.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 962 Threads: 116
Reputation:
3
Location: Melton Mowbray.
Zeto' and David.
It gets worse. I'm running an original case with original crank and rods!
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Re silicon gaskets. I have never had the need for them. A paper gasket with the correct non hardening gasket sealant works for me no leaks. I use aviation quality sealant which is spirit based paint it on type then wait for the spirit to evaporate which leaves a non hardening sticky sealant. Then bolt together for a no leak mating job.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 780 Threads: 26
Reputation:
8
Location: On a hill in Wiltshire
As an experiment I put this engine together with silicon gaskets everywhere except the head, the two exhaust gaskets, and the valve chest.
Not a drop of leakage for a couple of hundred miles, then a little to remind me to check all the fastenings,
which I will do and see what happens.
Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 65 Threads: 14
Reputation:
0
Location: Kenilworth, Warwickshire
So today I got round to having a go at installing a proper little end pinch bolt.
Lucky for me the lumps had been previously filed off the big end and the piston and rod assy fitted upwards through the barrel once the head was removed. All done without too much fuss. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Ray
