Conrod removal

[fatcatvera]

JI'm sure it's been covered here before, but a simple question - can I extract the conrod big end through the bore if the oil baffle plates are not present (standard bore engine)?

I need to replace a little end pinch bolt and I am hoping I can do this by removing sump/gauze and head only.

Thanks

Ray

[Ruairidh Dunford]

Only if the sides of the rods will fit through, with a standard bore material will normally need to have been removed.

[fatcatvera]

Thanks,

I'll take the sump off and have a measure before trying then.....


Ray

[Stuart Giles]

The bit that Ruairidh is talking about where metal may need to be removed (pretty well always with a standard bore) are the bumps visible just above the conrod/cap split line. Try not to take any more than you need from these as removing them altogether will probably make balancing a bit tricky later on.

[fatcatvera]

Thanks for that.

Thinking about it a little more..all I want to do is replace a little end pinch bolt in #1 rod. The reason being when I replaced teh rings/honed the block I noticed #1 pinch bolt was broken and I didn't have another bolt to suit so made a bolt - but it wasn't high tensile. So now I have night sweats thinking it might come loose, fall out, make a hole in the crankcase and let the gudgeon pin damage the bore.

So, I'm wondering if I can get to this from below with just the sump and gauze removed?

[AustinWood]

Getting at it from below with the rod on the crank won't work because the piston has to be rocked right over to get at the bolt. However there might just enough clearance to get at the little end clamp bolt if the big end is undone, the head removed with the piston pushed out of the top of the bore. However holding the rod firmly enough might be impossible.
Has anyone tried this?
Probably a block removal job.

[rubyman]

Just fitted 4 new piston's to my mk 2 ruby engine (no oil baffles) after removing big end caps piston/conrod pushed out no problem

[John Mason]

The way I would tackle the job is leave the head in place and as you say remove the sump and gorse and then take off all carb and exhaust connections. Remove all four big end caps then split block complete with pistons from the crankcase and remove offending piston and rod to replace the bolt. My reason for this way of doing things it is much cheaper for the paper block to crankcase gasket than a head gasket. Also I think easier.

John Mason

["Slack Alice" Simon]

Don't use a paper gasket between block and case, use a silicon rubber one.
It really helps with the oil leaks.

Simon

[Chris Garner]

Whilst taking nothing away from the silicone gasket, I have no leakages on three of my Sevens fitted with paper ones. Careful assembly all round is the key.
The one where I do have a leak is my 65, the block takes such a beating from the sports cam. At present however I'm too lazy to strip it all down and fit a silicone!