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Necessity is the mother of invention
#21
(09-09-2018, 09:59 PM)Colin Reed Wrote: Hi Stephen,
Just make two sets of cutters to fit in your holder one 30 degrees and one 60 degrees this will allow you to cut the inside and out side of the seat to get the right width on the valve  and central on the valve face.
Hope that helps

Colin NZ

Colin  good suggestion.  I hadn't really got that far yet as far as the seats themselves but this is definitely  something I will look at. Thank you.
Cheers,
Stephen
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#22
For those of you who are wondering what Colin is suggesting here is a drawing that illustrates the "three angle cut" valve seat.

.jpg   image.php.jpg (Size: 50.16 KB / Downloads: 192)


Or if you need colour to help in the clarification:

.jpg   3 angle seat.jpg (Size: 56.15 KB / Downloads: 188)
Cheers ,
Stephen
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#23
If you use a single point cutter pushed down against a stop, can put a dob of solder on the shaft for a snug fit and little tendency to chatter.

As previous considerable caution is needed with the steep cutter or the seating is moved irrecoverably too far up the original valve face.

About the only way to absolutely check concentricity is a neat fitting dummy valve machined in one setting or a dial gauge on a neat fitting mandrel.

For other cars I have made a range of dummy valves from mild steel threaded onto rods and turned. When used as a lap restored between centres or equiv.
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#24
Jeff, 
     checked my notes today and the plated valve was done 25 years ago and the company no longer exists  But another company we used to use does. 
   They are D K Holdings in Staplehurst, make sure that you get a fairly course grit otherwise your arms will ache unnecessarily. 
   Hope this is of help, 
         Robert.
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