Clutch Levers Position - Clutch not releasing

[Charles P]

Thanks for all the excellent advice all (as usual!), those lever rollers look great!

The only thing i'm confused about is where you say you "Set" the levers?  The only way i can remember you can move the levers is to loosen the clutch itself (and shim it with washers).  Is there another way please?

I've followed the advice in Woodrow and elsewhere and put 1/4 BSF Allen grub screws under the toggle fulcrum. Makes the levers all adjustable.
If you don't have Woodrow's Austin Seven Workshop Manual, buy it.

Charles

[Bryan]

Thanks for all the excellent advice all (as usual!), those lever rollers look great!

The only thing i'm confused about is where you say you "Set" the levers?  The only way i can remember you can move the levers is to loosen the clutch itself (and shim it with washers).  Is there another way please?

you have to bend the levers to set them. When I did mine I used the induction device to heat them first.
Bryan

[AustinWood]

The problem is usually caused by wear in the slots where the levers bear.
Fitting grub screws as suggested by Charles solves the problem at the cause and also makes the levers adjustable.

[Eddamoo]

Excellent, thanks all! Ed

[Eddamoo]

We're still having a nightmare with this - if anyone has ideas it'll be greatly appreciated. If not, ill have to have a poke around a local meetup!

We've followed the Woodrow guide and added the 1/4" Grub Screws and that has indeed got our Lever tips to the recommended 3/8ths short of the housing face - apologies i don't have this to hand at home. We've then offered up the gearbox and the Thrust bearing just engages before the 2 faces meet. I know the thrust bearing constantly has contact in many cars, is the Austin one of them?

We still have the problem however that the Clutch pedal is EXTREMELY stiff. Sitting on the chassis and pushing HARD on the pedal (without a rubber on admittedly) will only just get the levers to move 1-2mm. We've not managed to de-clutch.

Does anyone have any idea as to why it may be so difficult please?

[Ruairidh Dunford]

After you adjusted the grub screws did you grind the backs flush?

[stuartu]

Have you fitted double clutch springs? If yes, I have run into the same symptoms. The cause in that particular case was that the inner springs became coil bound in situ almost immediately as demonstrated by compressing an inner and outer set together in the vice. Cure was to abandon those particular inners.

If you haven't fitted double springs then sorry, that's not it!

Regards,
Stuart

[Charles Levien]

More clutch problems. I have recently fitted new linings to Borg and Beck driven plate and restored the cover plate by fitting grub screws which have nicely restored the worn section where the toggle levers bear on.This seemed to be the answer but now, some 600 miles later, i am back struggling to get the car into gear without graunching.
The grub screws ( quarter inch bsf) were centre popped and filed flush at the back so that is not part of the answer.
Looks like I’m going to take the gearbox out again but before I do I should like to have some sort of plan ( mice and men etc)
Any suggestions?

Charles

[Eddamoo]

After you adjusted the grub screws did you grind the backs flush?

Hi Ruairidh - yes the grub screws are slightly in-set at the back so no chance of fouling there.  The thing does move, but you literally have to push with over 50kg of pressure to make the clutch move ~2mm

Have you fitted double clutch springs? If yes, I have run into the same symptoms. The cause in that particular case was that the inner springs became coil bound in situ almost immediately as demonstrated by compressing an inner and outer set together in the vice. Cure was to abandon those particular inners.

If you haven't fitted double springs then sorry, that's not it!

Regards,
Stuart

Hi Stuart, we haven't fitted double springs no, but thank you for your post.  We've tested the 'springiness' a vise and clamps and it doesn't feel excessive and we double checked they are correctly aligned.  Do you know if the Thrust Bearing is supposed to be permanently connected?


It almost feels like we're missing some kind of Lever to amplify the force of pushing the thrust bearing?

---

More clutch problems. I have recently fitted new linings to Borg and Beck driven plate and restored the cover plate by fitting grub screws which have nicely restored the worn section where the toggle levers bear on.This seemed to be the answer but now, some 600 miles later, i am back struggling to get the car into gear without graunching.
The grub screws ( quarter inch bsf) were centre popped and filed flush at the back so that is not part of the answer.
Looks like I’m going to take the gearbox out again but before I do I should like to have some sort of plan ( mice and men etc)
Any suggestions?

Charles

Maybe a little overly simple but certainly worth a 5 minute check - Have you checked your pedal hasn't slipped on the joint on the gearbox (sorry dont know the proper name) to the point you can no longer get full travel?  I only say this as in the desparate attempt de-clutch ours, this did happen.

[stuartu]

"Do you know if the Thrust Bearing is supposed to be permanently connected?"

If you are using a three speed thrust bearing in a carrier with slots for the toggle levers self evidently it is permanently engaged. If a four speed thrust bearing, no.

Which are you using?

Regards,
Stuart