A New Austin Seven Owner

[Reckless Rat]

The knocking sound is probably not due to the king pin, it'll be something inside the front brake. I would leave the king pins alone unless you're absolutely sure they're knackered. The noise might be due to a brake lining coming adrift or a loose pivot. Do the little and easy things first.

[Turboseven412]

Wow thanks for all the replies! Some really useful information there, I can see myself referring to this thread many times in the future for help and resources.
I'm in the process of ordering a copy of the red book and other spares/tools that I need from sellers that you've suggested.

David, thank you for your kind offer, I will send you a PM shortly. I do hope that the axle ends aren't knackered too....but I had no idea shrinking them was even possible!?

Reckless, in this case I'm certain the offside kingpin is properly knackered. The knocking may be coming from elsewhere, however if put the handbrake on and try and rotate the wheel an audible knock is coming from that pin and visible movement in the joint. The nearside does have some up and down play which I would consider acceptable (I've owned LDV's for years and theyre always like that to a certain extent) so I'm undecided whether to change it while the axle is out.

With regards to my out of round wheel drum, I think its due to a pitted area, is it worth trying to have it turned or better to just replace?

[David Stepney]

Its not a good idea to skim standard A7 drums. They are spun and not cast and are therefore very thin and prone to distortion. Sourcing a more serviceable one will be the way forward. Don't quote me, but I have a feeling that A7 Components may be able to supply new ones.

[Turboseven412]

Roger that, I see  A7 does have them so I will ring tomorrow and ask if I can add a pair to my order.

[Turboseven412]

   

Me old mum in the car, she absolutely loves it!
   

The Austin's so small it fits neatly in my container with ample space to work.

[Reckless Rat]

Your car is definitely an RP Saloon. You can tell that from the moulding on the scuttle and around the side window frames. It also has a bowdenex front brake cable conversion. Enjoy!

[Turboseven412]

Thanks Reckless, I had no idea about that.  Is it a big improvement over the standard?

You probably can't see in the photo, the driver side brake cable runs on the outside of the drag link, which is causing it rub on the tire when the wheel is turned to the right.  Should it be routed on the other side of the drag link?

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So I've realised that the cotter pin on my knocking kingpin was loose, I've tightened it and that has stiffened it up somewhat but the movement is still there, but requires more force to produce it.  

The movement I'm describing seems to coming from inside the axle beam, otherwise tightening the cotter would have no effect on the amount of play, is that right?

[Reckless Rat]

Opinions vary of the efficacy of the Bowdenex conversion, but rubbing on the tyre isn't recommended. I would guess it might be best to re-route it, but the system is outwith my experience. To be fair Austin Seven brakes are nothing like as efficient as on a modern. The original cable set-up is adequate though, if properly set up.

If your semaphore indicators are working, you can get flashing LED bulbs to replace the originals. They might make them easier to spot. Too many drivers about these days that haven't got a clue what they are.

You can get them here (I have no connection with the seller by the way) https://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.c...c/28044330, although you might have indicators incorporated in the sidelights?

Your car is also running on 17" wheels with Avon 4.50 -17 tyres, which is non-standard for an RP saloon. They should be 19" rims with 3.50-19 tyres. Not really "wrong" as such, probably a period modification. The Ruby series cars ran on 17"

[Howard Wright]

Thanks Reckless, I had no idea about that.  Is it a big improvement over the standard?

You probably can't see in the photo, the driver side brake cable runs on the outside of the drag link, which is causing it rub on the tire when the wheel is turned to the right.  Should it be routed on the other side of the drag link?

---

So I've realised that the cotter pin on my knocking kingpin was loose, I've tightened it and that has stiffened it up somewhat but the movement is still there, but requires more force to produce it.  

The movement I'm describing seems to coming from inside the axle beam, otherwise tightening the cotter would have no effect on the amount of play, is that right?

Hi Tuboseven

The king pin should be a good fit in the axle eye without tightening the pin.  The pin prevents the king pin from sliding up and down.  It does sound as if your axle eyes need to be seen to!

Howard

[Reckless Rat]

If you're going to have the axle seen to, I would advise sending it to Ruairidh Dunford with the stub axles still attached (remove the brakes and hubs). That will alleviate any problems regarding the king pins and bushes as he can replace like with like. (they may be over size)

PS - don't try to remove the cotter pins as they won't come out until you remove the king pins!