Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,347 Threads: 241
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Location: North Herts
I have a '36 Ruby. The drain tap can get gunked up with gunge. I would open the tap and while the water is draining out, wiggle some stiff wire up it to dislodge any bits. You might then find the tap seals properly.
Joined: Jul 2024 Posts: 11 Threads: 2
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Location: East Midlands
Car type: 1936 Ruby
Thank you, that would be great. At the moment I can't open or close the tap at all. It's stuck fast. I think I just need to let it drain and replace.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 611 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi
The standard tap is just a tapered brass plug with a sideways hole through the centre, so a quarter turn or less is enough to open it. The taper is held into its socket by a small spring on the opposite side to the lever. You might find that if you pull on the lever whilst attempting to turn it that you can free the taper. Otherwise its a case of removing the tap and sorting it out on the bench. Good luck catching any antifreeze for re-use, the positioning over the front spring more or less guarantees that the outflow goes everywhere !
Joined: Jul 2024 Posts: 11 Threads: 2
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Location: East Midlands
Car type: 1936 Ruby
Thanks John, that's very helpful! My tap is nothing like that, so I think I'm best to replace it. Hopefully the radiator will accept the correct one easily enough!
There is certainly no spring on mine and it looks nothing like the ones I've seen on other cars.
This car hasn't had a lot of use recently but is in decent shape. I think that using it properly since I got it has strained some dormant parts. It certainly didn't have a coolant leak when I got it, and it did drip oil, but that has increased too. I'll get to the bottom of it, one way or another!
I'm feeling a slight downer about it right now but I know I'll love it again when I get back out in it. It's just what I wanted.
I want to remove the radiator grille to get better access. Is that as simple as tapping the bolt out that holds the starter handle? And then unbolting everything holding it in place
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 611 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi
If you want to keep the radiator in place but get better access, you do need to remove the front grille. The starting handle is held with a tapered cotter (like an old fashioned bicycle crank). Undo the nut and remove the washer, then put the nut back on upside down till the flat outer face is flush with the end of the thread (this protects the thread). Then knock the nut with a reasonable sized hammer. It helps to also have a heavy weight held against the other side to take the blow. Once the cotter has moved, undo the nut a bit more and knock again. Eventually you may need a parallel punch or thin bolt to allow the cotter to be knocked right through and out. The handle should then pull/twist off. The "tinwork" is held on with a number of nuts and bolts with large "mudguard" washers. The tinwork holes are slotted to allow a bit of position adjustment. There is also a nut and bolt right at the top which joins to the radiator and the central bonnet support.
If you want to remove the radiator, leave the grille alone. Remove the bonnet after releasing the hinge support - this is one nut halfway along underneath the "U" section fore-aft bar. The bonnet lifts up and slightly forwards, it's much easier with two people. Then unbolt and remove the fore-aft bar after disconnecting the horn. The front bolt which holds the top of the radiator has a spring under. If the radiator has vertical side plates (many are missing) undo the three small nuts and bolts and take them off. Remove the hose clips from the engine ends and free the two hoses - the hoses can stay attached to the radiator but it's probably better to take them right off. Lastly, the bottom of the radiator is held by two studs, with springs, washers and nuts. The nuts are accessed via oval holes in the bottom of the support brackets - space is tight so a tube (box) spanner or a slender socket is required. WARNING, spray with Plus-Gas the day before and don't go mad with undoing these nuts as the studs are only soft soldered and go through holes into the thin brass bottom tank - this is a design weakness and leaks are always a risk ! When replacing, do the nuts up until the springs are coil bound then back off one turn.
One last note, most of the fixings on these cars are either BSF or Whitworth. The same spanner or socket set will work for both, but BSF/Whit spanners are unique and not the same sizes as Metric or Imperial AF. Car boot sales used to yield BSF/Whit spanners cheaply, but you might have to invest in new ones.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
It is important to support the starting handle when you knock the cotter pin. Do not rely on the aluminium housing which can break very easily if the handle is unsupported. A bit of tube around the back of the pin held on a block or resting on a jack at the right height gives the support needed. I learned the hard way a long tome ago!
