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Brakes not so good.
#11
I’m hoping you are right about “bending in”. I took the drums off only 50 miles after relining and was surprised to see wear only in a few small places, but nicely distributed over the whole lining. For better or worse I’ve tightened the adjustment on the fronts so there is very slight drag when the brakes are off. I hope that will accelerate the beding in? After a 15 mile drive the hub over the drum was just slightly warm to touch.
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#12
I'd say that 50 miles bedding in would be scarcely enough. While I tend to drive so that I don't need to use the brakes (I can't bear losing that costly inertia!) I'd expect 150-200 miles should be a target...downhill stretches are an ideal opportunity to do some extra braking to help the process.
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#13
My special is on a late Ruby chassis with full Girlings (rods to the rear) and has locked up all 4 in an emergency, when an infant ran into the road from behind a car. Anticipation and complete concentration is needed at all times with any non modern car. I have driven veterans with all sorts of braking from spoons on the tires to a Lanchester with multiple plate drive line, Iron shoes in Steel drums and tiller steering. Other drivers were always the main accident threat. I dread the time when smart cars will be driving on smart roads and we have to deal with that.
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#14
What better linings are available? While my car is in pieces for crash repair I would like to fit shoes with softer linings. Where can we get these for a '34 Ruby please?

(Poor brakes did not affect the crash. He turned across in front of me and we collided before I had chance to press the brake pedal.)
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#15
Safetek. Green Grippers.
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#16
https://saftek.co.uk/friction-products-f...lications/
Jim
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#17
On Ruby after fitting new linings the brakes were little better, on checking the wear was uneven, mainly on the inner edge and very little anywhere else.
I had originally noted that with the brake shoes did not sit square once the springs were in place, however in my ignorance, I had assumed that once the drums were in place it would “square up” the shoes up to the drums, …….no!!
The two cleats that held the shoes in place did not hold the shoes square and allowed the shoes to sit at quite an angle, so with a bit of gentle persuasion, I managed to close the gap on the cleats to allow the shoes to sit square but still be free enough not to bind.
I was aware that as the cleats are just riveted in place and so I needed to be gentle so as not to disturb the rivets and leave them loose.
The wear on the linings is now far more even, not perfect as yet, but after about 2000 miles, guessing around 80% + and the brakes are much better than before.
Those with more experience can advise on my logic here.
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#18
With new linings after a few miles I remove the drums and gently file off the high spots with a flat file. This repeated several times and within a short while they are bedded perfectly. It takes only a few miles to do,
Jim
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#19
Some30 years ago I bought a late type chummy that appeared outwardly to be in good condition but on examination was mechanically knackered, shackle pins had worn through the bearings and were wearing into the axles and springs. The car had been taken off the road when the MOT test had been introduced and layed up.When I stripped it down I was amazed to find a set of brand new brake linings had been fitted all around. I imagine that the car had failed its MOT test ( brakes only at that time) and then had new linings fitted and promptly failed the test again as when the brakes came on there was so much slack in the system the front axle rotated and let them off again. The moral is the brakes won’t work unless the whole mechanical system is in good order. No excessive slack in shackle pins and bushes. King pins, cable shackles etc, and also make sue the brake cross shaft brackets do not have loose rivets or flex excessively. It’s no good having good linings and a poor suspension system and cross shaft. Colin
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