Greetings from across the pond!

[A Spooky Ghost]

I stumbled upon a 36 Ruby stateside recently. Couldn't believe it!  So I drug it home, she came with a bunch of American Bantam parts, and a wee bit of BMW Dixie.

Looks like it went 70k miles, before smoke started pouring out.  Someone took out a piston...

I didn't get that rod, piston, or oil pan. Seems it's lost to time.

Of course it's locked solid, and a tree tried to make sweet love to the roof.

To free it up, ive tried a few things. Like hitting the pistons with a wood stick, fire, and pouring molten pewter down the bores.

That way I can beet it senseless with a hammer, and pipe.   Might have freed up no1...

[Jeff Taylor]

Welcome to the forum and the world of Austin 7's. Your Ruby is listed on the 'Austin Seven Clubs' Association' Chassis Register of known existing Sevens. When listed in May 2007 it was owned by a member of the American Austin Bantam Club in Boston USA. 

The registration BRO 64 shows that when new, it was first registered here in the UK in the County of Hertfordshire in April 1936.

https://a7ca.org/chassis-register/regresults

An often used method here for freeing off seized engines is to pour Coca-Cola down the bores and leave standing for a week - you'd be surprised what it can do. I've also had great success with a aerosol product available here in the UK - there'll be similar available Stateside and that's 'Loctite Freeze & Release'. 

Jeff.  


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[A Spooky Ghost]

Never heard of that freezing spray, I'll look into it.

Just got my copy of the big red book, and made some whitworth tool orders.

Looks like I'll have to wack the middle two pistons up, from underneath.

[Duncan Grimmond]

With the bores in that condition I think I 'd be tempted to get the engine onto a bench stand before you do any serious damage...and a long good soaking with oil before reaching for the big hammer again.

[Chris KC]

When did it last run?

Put away the hammers away, and the matches. 
Hoist the engine out onto a bench and start stripping it down carefully and in a logical order.
If you don't know your way around an A7 get a handbook first.
I'd start by removing the sump and trying to figure out what is jammed and why.
Haste to hear it run will not repay you well in the long run.

[Tony Griffiths]

Welcome to the mad world of the Austin 7. As you are new to the car, here's some background that I hope you'll find useful - there is, of course, even more to be found if you search online:

CLUBS:
There are so many Austin 7 clubs that, in 1969, an association of them was formed - and this is now the go-to place that hosts a mass of important data: https://a7ca.org/ It's a very large site with lists of clubs, a superb archive of historical data, reproduction handbooks, chassis and car registers, A7 history, A7 model identification, events, etc, - explore the A7CA website: https://a7ca.org

The page that links to the most important sections is: https://archive.a7ca.org/

DIRECT LINKS to HANDBOOKS, PARTS MANUALS, and SALES CATALOGUES
A comprehensive collection can be downloaded as PDFs: https://archive.a7ca.org/collections/han...rts-lists/
Sales brochures can be found here: https://archive.a7ca.org/collections/show-brochures/

The Pre-War A7 club has a very useful Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/pwa7c .... with other enthusiasts forming groups for specific models or regional interests.
As a club member, you will receive not only the club's magazine but also the Association Magazine, published quarterly since 1970 https://a7ca.org/about-us/magazine/

BACKGROUND and BOOKS:
To read the fascinating background to the car - with reproductions of the notebook by Stanley Edge the design draftsman see: https://a7ca.org/austin-seven/the-people/
Austin 7 books can be bought from: http://www.pwa7c.co.uk/bookshop.php This is a very useful collection of material including historial and technical literature and material on specific models such as the Type 65 and Nippy, Grasshopper and Ulster, etc.

For engine, other mechanical work and restorations one highly recommended business with personal attention and much helpful advice is: http://www.albaaustins.co.uk

IS YOUR CAR ALREADY LISTED?
To see if your car is listed or to add it (that would be very useful) the A7CA provides a list of known vehicles: https://a7ca.org/chassis-register/  It includes versions by English Austin, American Austin and Bantam, German Dixi and BMW, and French Rosengart. You can search by Model Type as well as chassis, car, and registration numbers.

For new Austin 7 parts try these links:
David Cochraine at: https://www.a7c.co.uk/aboutus.php
Jamie Rogerson at: https://www.theaustinsevenworkshop.com/
http://austinrepro.com/ This company offers standard and also beautifully made, difficult-to-find reproductions of headlamps, speedometers, rev counters and various items for standard cars and also the Swallow, Nippy, Ulster, etc:
For both new and used parts try: Tony Betts at http://www.7ca.co.uk/ and http://www.southernsevens.co.uk
Another link with details of restorers, gearbox, suspension and bodywork experts, etc: https://oldcarservices.co.uk/austin-seven-specialists/
If you want to know about 'Technical Data & Specifications', thread sizes, etc, this page will help: https://www.austin7.org/Data%20Pages/Tech%20Data/

INTERESTING ODDS and ENDS
For 25+ pages of digitally restored, interesting and high-resolution Austin illustrations (that you can download and print out) see http://www.lathes.co.uk/austin7
Fitting indicators, a guide is available here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/austin-7-indicators
Improving the lights: http://www.lathes.co.uk/austin7-2/page18.html
For the 100th anniversary of the Seven's introduction in 2022 - which a thousand cars attended - watch the film here: https://a7centenary.com/

[Reckless Rat]

Even if you remove the big end caps from the crank you won't be able to draw standard Austin rods through the block. In standard form there will be oil splash guards in place between the block and the crankcase and even if they gave been removed the big end won't pass through the bore. You need to separate the block and crankcase before you damage something. The pistons will have to come out from the bottom of the block, after separation. Put your hammer away and get spannering

[A Spooky Ghost]

I have no idea last time it ran. I'm missing the empty cylinder piston, rod, and oil sump cover.

I did get #1 to free up. I do have the big red book, and a few others on the way. It did come with a box of spare rods.

Found a spare crank in the parts pile. Looks like it might be from a BMW Dixie.

Someone was hoarding American Bantam generators too.

[Ivor Hawkins]

It looks like it has its original paint and apart from the tree damage, it looks as sound as a pound (or should I say dollar!)

[A Spooky Ghost]

Tore into it a bit more today. The manifold had no nuts, but was stuck really well. Looks like when what ever happened, they tried to take it apart, and just gave up.

Valve chest looks clean.  Reized I needed to get the grill off, to easily yank the engine.

I fought that crank handle for several hours.  The pin cam out easy.

It took $200. In rental puller tools to get it off. 

So the empty cylinder has no baffle plates.  If the rod can't come out the block.  Then maybe it busted one?

Found a oil sump, if they will send it across pond..

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Considering I mainly used just a 14mm spanner, 2 adjustable wrenches, and a hammer. I made decent progress.

Whitworth tools on the way!