Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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I have a scrap valve to try reducing the throat area above the contact/guide. I attempted something with a new Dormer bit in a dremel, but they are too small and create a slightly pocked surface. I've also tried a much larger burr in a Makita, which copes nicely with the curved areas but is no use on a flat sided stem. All these whilst rotating a valve in the pillar drill.
I realise that a lathe is the only way to do it professionally, but that isn't an option, so what other ways can I improve with what I've got? I wondered about a file or stone against the valve stem.
Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,982 Threads: 561
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Location: Peak District, Derbyshire
Car type: 1929 Chummy, 1930 Chummy, 1930 Ulster Replica, 1934 Ruby
if the drill is a bench type, lay it horizontally and attempt the job using an oil stone?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
Jon
I do this sort of bodging all the time.
A rest, like you see on a wood lathe, or a spinning lathe makes the world of difference.
You simply rest your file, dremmel, angle grinder. haxsaw (or whatever) on the rest to keep it steady as it does its thing.
On a pillar drill you can often use the adjustable table as a rest.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,329 Threads: 372
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good. will try a hand rest. Have been a bit worried about shooting into the valve seating zone!
I tried the stem with a file today and it seemed to be a better surface to work with. That is the difficult bit - the stem itself but I suppose the least important.
