Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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I've had to do a temporary fix to my ARQ Ruby after the Lucas PL2 switch, ig/lights/charging etc fell apart.
In the short term I want to put a bank of simple on/off switches in series to replace the above so the car can be used.
Can anybody supply a simple schematic to show how to achieve the 2 charging options (summer/winter) all the lights and IG have been sorted.
The rest of the wiring behind the dash panel is as per wiring diagram and I'm using a new loom,from 7 workshop.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
The simple answer for the charging circuit is to wire an ordinary on/off switch across the two connections on the dynamo. In the 'on'position you will get full charge, and in the 'off position you will get half charge. Leave the two wires in place; one of them allows current out of the dynamo to the cutout and thence to the battery, and the other is irrelevant in this situation, but you don't neccessarily know which is which. Make sure the normal dynamo connections going to the knackered dashboard switch do not connect to earth by being left hanging in the air (some insulating tape or put a connector on with nothing the other side).
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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Morning Robert, thanks for that, the F1 wire is the 'free' wire at present, and the ammeter shows a charge. so if I just isolate this wire in the short term guess that resolves the issue ?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 926 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
I am not aware of where your F1 wire is but you say it is 'free'. If the car is charging I suspect you mean the field connection, so isolating it should be safe and wise.
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Whatever you are doing it is important that the F and D are not electrically connected but to nothing else (except briefly for testing). Must be operative cutout and battery.
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14-08-2021, 08:06 PM
(This post was last modified: 14-08-2021, 08:16 PM by flywheel1935.)
Think I'll just leave as is, its working, whatever charge I have summer/winter ???
there's enough for local trips.
In fact just for future reference, can anybody supple a schematic of the internal switching of the Lucas switch, and how each turn of the 'handle' connects the contacts
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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Thats the one I used with the new loom, it's very good, apart from my simple brain is struggling with the lucas switching, it's only the lucas internals that I can't work out as my switch fell apart , so can't use a multi-meter.
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The diagram shows the internals of the PLC switch. It is drawn in the sidelight/ tail light position with ignition off. The ignition switch is independent of the low/high/side/headlight part of the switch.
The key bit on the left opens and closes the connection between the battery (via the ammeter) and the IG connection on the switch which provides power to all the things that are controlled by the ignition key eg the coil.
The two arrows pointing down in the center part of the switch are connected together and control the connections between the F1, +D and F2. As drawn the schematic shows the switch terminals F1 and +D are linked - if you follow the wires connected to the PLC switch you can see that this means the D and F2 terminals on the dynamo are connected together.
The three arrows pointing down on the RHS of the switch are connected together and control the lights - T (sidelights, tail light) and H (headlights). The L terminal is not used. The A terminal is connected to the battery (via the ammeter) and the dynamo output via the cutout when the cutout is closed. As drawn the switch terminals T and A (which connects to the battery via the ammeter) are connected together so the sidelights and tail light(s) are on.
Hope this makes sense and I have not got my wires crossed. If you re-draw the contacts for the three other positions of the switch you will be able to see the connections in each case.
Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 281 Threads: 38
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I,ll do my own schematic from your reply, now I know the position of the switch, thanks
