Wheel Nut Torque.

[Smiley]

Does anyone know,  Is there a Recommended Torque for the wheel nuts on an RP ?
Thanks.

[Parazine]

Ha ha! There aren't any recommended torques for anything, that's only for 'sixties and later cars.

Do 'em up with the genuine wheel brace, tight but don't overdo it, the nuts are only brass and will strip if you go over the top. Avoid doing them up with a socket set because tears will result.......

[Tony Griffiths]

As everyone will explain, just use the standard wheel brace - and check them regularly. It's important to ensure that, due to wear on the wheel-centre nut seatings, that the nuts do not protrude through and contact the brake drum - so leaving the wheel loose. Remove the wheels and try every nut to ensure that none have this fault. If they do, they can be shortened in a lathe or even, with care, on a band sander.

[Bob Culver]

It is rare to find old studs not stretched so the first few threads seem coarse, or dished at the back where starting to pull through. Incidentally it is remarkabe what a tiny flange suffices as head for studs. Javelin cars have only 3/8 studs so whilst "professionals" regularly break these the tiny flange usually survives.

[Steve kay]

Can I add to the comments. The only cars whose tool kits include the original wheelbrace for me is the Seven. After a perhaps random number of years I just buy a new set from a cherished supplier. There are always a couple of spare wheel nuts in the car, usually to be lent to Sevens at the roadside.

[Reckless Rat]

Try 20 ft/ lbs no more.

[Bob Culver]

Has anyone compared the Seven brace  with a torque wrench? Now it is customary to recommend no oil or grease but if applied to my car the nut threads would have worn through decades ago. I dont want to spend an hour if someone already has.
15 lb ft with trace of oil? (Written before RR above appeared)

[Alan]

In my day job, I did considerable research into why trucks and cars suffer from self loosening wheel nuts. One of the major causes is low underhead and thread friction. This is partly caused by the presence of oil, grease or some types of corrosion inhibitor in the joint. You should not apply oil to wheel nuts.

[Bob Culver]

Despite knowing the advice I have always ensured slight oiliness on other family cars, but all had presed steel wheels which have a spring load effect. Had seen others grapple with seized nuts and turning studs, esp on boat trarilers. Oily threads even more prone to breakage by "professionals".
The Seven is different and regular checking very desirable.
Loose wheels on restored cars usually attributable to soft paint build up. It always intrigues me that professional tyre fitters never make any attempt to clean the wheel or hub face, or even to inspect.

[Hedd_Jones]

I've never found a problem with the nuts coming undone.

I have lost 2 studs on on wheel, but not lost the wheel.

And recently had this issue, which I had heard of, but never experienced. The nuts were 'FT' but the wheel rattled round on the hub...

The fix.



and the problem