Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,201 Threads: 71
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With the price of relatively cheap oil for running in purposes against the cost of a new engine, I think the approach is clear. When I put the new engine in the cabriolet, I did the first change at around 20 miles and then relatively frequently after that - probably 50 or 60, then 100, 150 gradually stretching out the intervals - very similar to Reckers. At every change, it was clear that the change was worthwhile...
For the sake of 15 quid or so.....
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,019 Threads: 169
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Location: Sherwood Forest
Car type: 1938 Talbot Ten Airline
I can understand the desirability of frequent oil-changes after a rebuild, but no-one has mentioned dropping the sump and cleaning the filter gauze each time. Surely this is as important - if not more important - as just changing the oil?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,418 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Is this a genuine Speedy engine we're talking about?
Joined: Sep 2017 Posts: 101 Threads: 32
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Location: Hampshire
In answer to Chris KC's question, yes this is a genuine Speedy engine with full flow oil filter à la Paul Bonell.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,418 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
Ah well then.
If you haven't yet changed the oil from 'new' (since rebuild), I'd do it now, and consider changing the filter element too.
In all other circs I wouldn't trouble too much about oil standing for any time up to say a year; but at least 2 or 3 oil changes in the initial running-in period (1500 - 2000 miles) are highly advisable, even with a full-flow filter. Specially if it's something rare and precious like that.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
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Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
For me, fresh engine. Cheap oil. Start it, get it warm. Dump it.
New oil, get 50 - 100 road miles under its belt, dump it again. Its using disgusting
I generally change then every 500miles. Oils cheap.
It wouldn't worry me overly its been sat in an engine over lockdown. Start it, get it warm and dump it, then start again. Better dump it hot than cold.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
Seven attitudes have certtinly changed since the 60s! If so concerned about wear what lengths are gone to to avoid short and cold runs, starting just to move etc, all conducive to condensation the main Seven enemy? I suspect the main source of metal is the timing gears, esp with increased output, but persons do not desist on the basis of more detritus.
The lasrt "modern" I put rings only in I retained the filter, put back settled old oil, then replaced all after 100 miles.
For the car which has stood removing the sump before start up would get rid of all metal dertritus.
For those without filters drained oil can be poured through a modern filter.
From what I have read a thermostst would likley reduce wear more than all the draining rituals.