Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 745 Threads: 13
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I am about to do this task and a couple of block to head studs as well.
I will be taking it to work to do a Rabbit on a milling machine when it becomes free of work work !!
There is a spark eroder in another workshop but I am not allowed to play with that.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 3,418 Threads: 107
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Location: Darkest Bedfordshire
It's probably worth adding that it's worth taking considerable care to get the drill straight and centred - by any means necessary.
Joined: Aug 2020 Posts: 42 Threads: 14
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Location: Hove
Car type: A7 Specials, 1927 & 1934
Just a quick update for future searchers.
We got drilling and tapping. Without any sort of guide it was a bit hairy, as the drilling did not run perfectly straight, but stepping up slowly in size, and then drifting the remains sideways, we got both out and re-tapped to the original thread with plenty left to hold a replacement stud.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 935 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
When it comes to head studs clean off the tops of the broken studs if they are projecting to give you a flat face to drill into. Put a head on the remaining studs for location. You then have a good guide for starting to drill into the broken bits. You can start by marking the broken bit centrally using a bit which is just clearance in the guide hole, take the head off to see whether your mark looks central, then put it back so that you can see you are drilling down the centre of the guide hole with a smaller bit, and work up in size as you did for the side water joint. If your mark on the broken stud was not quite central adjust it with a centre punch.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 935 Threads: 22
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Location: Near Cambridge, UK
Car type: 1928 tourer (mag type), short chassis Gould Ulster
Carrying on a little off the theme of broken studs, I did get away with welding a lump onto the end of a broken little end bolt where the head had broken off. It seemed to be the only possibility without damaging the piston. There is no tension in the bolt when the head is off, so I unscrewed it by means of a miniature Mole wrench clamped on my lump of weld.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
I have drilled out broken head studs in a similar way to Roberts method but used sleeves inserted into the stud holes in the head. These take up the slack and ensure you get it central on the broken stud. Details of these sleeves are in the Woodward manual. There is one for a small pilot hole and one to remove the broken stud.
John Mason,
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.