Brakes binding when reversing

[Malcolm Parker]

Could the brake problem be anything to do with the rear springs 'unwinding' when you take up the drive in reverse?  If you jack up the car so that the rear axle settles and the springs become more cambered, does that cause the brakes to apply themselves?

[Denis Sweeney]

Worth a try, I’ve got to have another look whatever I do.
I will also check to see if the shoe/lining edges are binding on the drums in anyway.

[squeak]

Malcolm I like your suggestion regarding the torque reaction of reversing causing the springs to unwind and a pull on the brake cable.
But, to verify I'd place 2 people in the back seat and try to push the car backwards on the flat. It seems that to jack the car up and allow the springs to sag would have the opposite effect

[Tiger]

Hi David
I have the same problem with my Ruby.
Hoping to finish rebuild this winter.
SORRY IF THIS IS OBVIOUS BUT I NEEDED VERY VERY SLACK CABLES TO AVOID THIS PROBLEM.
Regards
Tim

[Malcolm Parker]

I think the problem is occuring as the springs become more cambered, so surely having two people in the back would have the opposite effect?   I suspect that if the brakes are coming on as the rear springs develop more camber, there might also be a self-servo effect as the car attempts to move further backwards.  Slacking off the rear brake cables a bit would be a good idea.

[Reckless Rat]

Setting up the brakes is best done with all 4 wheels off the deck, but with the weight of the car on the springs. To do this I place axle stands under both axles. It is important that more braking effort goes to the front rather than the back and as already stated the rear cables need quite a lot of slack compared to the front. I set the system to start to activate at the second notch on the handbrake ( coupled brakes) and adjust the rear cables so the friction felt at each wheel is the same. The handbrake should be fully on at 4 or 5 notches, with the foot pedal adjusted after release to take up any slack. A test on a gravelly car park will show whether the set up is good. If the rears lock first then the rear cables are still not slack enough. As a guide you should be able to deflect the rear cables a good 2" on the run between the rear cross member and the lever before you feel brake drag.

[Denis Sweeney]

Dear RR, FYI you posted very similar methodology to a previous post I had on brakes and one which I have followed each time I have set the brakes up.
I always set the car on axle stands where the weight is supported on the road springs and should replicate it’s normal running position.
I had an issue with my rear axle once the car was on the road which I sorted and at that time found an additional issue with the rear brakes, a consequence of my own incompetence. So I had to replace the linings which were new items. I did and set the car up again as you describe and the only difference to my knowledge this time around is that new linings were purchased from a different supplier and I believe they are high friction material which the previous possible were not.
I will keep digging away, but thanks for your advice.
Denis S