Chassis issues

[mhacche]

Hello all and happy self distancing ☹️
It appears that my 7 chassis has been chopped, I don’t mind this but it brings up a couple of issues!

I want to maintain the 6ft 3” wheel base although this will mean chopping and cutting the rear of the chassis as the springs are obviously wider than the chassis when brought forward!

Another way I considered was to place the springs above the chassis on supporting brkts which I have seen!

Has anyone got any images please? Especially of how far the spring distance is from rear U bolt to the end of the chassis.

Also is there enough room for the steering track rod be moved in front of the front axle and the damper position be changed?

Don’t all shout at once?

[Tony Griffiths]

A set of photographs would be a great help in foisting upon you a deluge of potent if contradictory advice...

[mhacche]

I just want the best way forward really, no point in trying to reinvent any wheels?

[Zetomagneto]

Hi Martin, shouldn't be any need to chop the Chassis, use a short Chassis rear axle, or narrow a later axle.As Tony says would be good to see some photos, and the type of car you want to build.
Mounting springs above the sidemembers suggest something quite low.

[mhacche]

Sorry but I can’t seam to drop any images in at the moment! a narrow axle might fit but I prefer the width of the later one I have will make for a more comfortable interior. Just a case of finding someone who has gone through a similar process. How do you narrow a later axle? I could modify to use the girling back plates I have

["Slack Alice" Simon]

My special has a short chassis and a Ruby back axle.   I think - I will have to check - the original lugs are cut off, and two new lugs welded on to the casings to suit the spring positions.

All you need then is a non standard pin, easily made from 1/2" bar, and a spacer.   Has worked well for 40 years, and much simpler than bending springs sideways or shortening things.

You presumably use the holes for the pins in the axle ends as drilling guides.

I will try and get a photo, though the car isn't here.

Simon

[Robert Leigh]

My Ulsteroid is on a former Ruby chassis shortened to 6'3" and spread a bit at the rear to take the Ruby axle. I didn't do it, but bought the car unfinished, and I did not have to address any problems this may have caused. The car had got to the stage of being a rolling chassis complete with engine and gearbox in place. I have rebuilt all the mechanical bits since then, but I have not seen the need to put the trackrod in front of the axle. If you want pictures of any specific part I may be able to help.
Robert Leigh

[Cliff Ringrose]

   

It might not be any help to you, but this picture just about shows how the chasis of my special was shortened, (not by me). A section has been cut out ahead of the spring mounting, then with the remaining rear section moved forward 6" it has been welded back in at an angle to reconect the two lengths of side member. A heavy steel plate is than welded across the bottom of all the top hat sections as reinforcement. The picture makes it look as though the insert slopes up, but that is an optical illusion.  
The result is all 6'9" running gear is retained, but on a nicer preportioned 6'3" chasis.

[Steve Jones]

Or you can simply narrow your axle. Fairly straightforward with rather less cutting and welding but you will need a pair of short half shafts.

   

Steve

[mhacche]

Hi all, thanks for your help and comments it proves there is always a way through. For me I think it will be easier to re-position my springs on top of the chassis on a new plate, I will box the rails for strength too incorporating new spring bolts.