radiator & block water capacity & crank rotation

[steve62008]

OK, the dumb questions of my day:  How much water does the radiator hold, and how much water does the engine hold?  Whilst changing out radiator hoses, I discovered lots of gunk. Some of which came out when I drained the water from the block and radiator, but I suspect given the amount, there's still a good bit in there.  So, I decided to flush the system with Prestone flush.  With the hoses off, I plan to put the flush with boiling water in both places separately, shake the car up and down a bit and then drain again.  I know the capacity of both the block and radiator together, but not each separately....anybody have an idea of what these amounts might be?

Second, I fear the starter bendix is stuck (won't engage the flywheel), I'll likely start the car with the crank until I get to the starter motor (dynamo??).  So a stupid question, do I crank clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Thanks in advance!
Steve

[Jack in the Box]

Steve,

Regarding starting handle rotation, I don’t think you’ll have a choice, as the handle will only engage with the starter dog in one direction, and I think you’ll find it to be clockwise when viewed from the front.

Alan

[Terrytuned]

Steve you won't get all the residue out of the block without removing the side water manifold and having a poke around the the cylinders with an old hacksaw blade and a bent wire. Terry.

[steve62008]

good idea - will do!  Thanks

[Reckless Rat]

Steve, I guess that you're not familiar with the Austin Seven, it's engine and/or it's foibles. Take my advice - flush the engine cooling system out with a hose. remove the side water branch at your peril unless you like playing with cans of worms.

The starter motor issue can be easily resolved by removing the starter motor and checking that the pinion retaining spring isn't broken or is preventing the pinion from moving up the bendix to mesh with the flywheel. Disconnect the battery before you do anything.

I would counsel the purchase of a book called "The Austin Seven Manual" by Doug Woodrow as a must before you start tinkering. They are available from our cherished suppliers - click on the logo at the top of the page.

[steve62008]

why "can of worms"?  What's behind the side manifold that causes worry?  Is it just a chamber, or channels, or will I be digging around the pistons, or...?  Should I spray hard stream into the manifold opening and leave the other hose connections open too.  Really, all I'm trying to do is get this baby up and running, expecting to do more extensive renovation later.  But, at every juncture, I find problems that need fixing as long as I have some bits apart.

Not unfamiliar with the process...restored a Jag XK 120 from the ground up...it was an honest basket case when I got it...body here, frame there, engine under a pile of stuff, missing pieces, rust galore, etc., etc., etc.  I'm willing to do what's necessary and this isn't my first rodeo, but hoped I'd be able to get this one running and just have fund driving it awhile.

Cheers!  Steve

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oh, and I do have this book, along with 3 others that are very helpful

[Reckless Rat]

There is a very high risk that one or both of the bolts locating the side water branch to the block are seriously corroded and may snap off when you try to remove them. In addition the very small cast iron web across the branch connection may also be badly corroded. It can be repaired with a custom repair
but as I stated earlier remove it at your peril. Don't say you weren't warned! See www.ba7.org technical articles on how to rectify.

[steve62008]

thanks for the great info! When you say "flush it out with a hose," do you mean high pressure (say with a narrow sprinkler connector like you wash your driveway with)? Or just normal "thumb over opening" pressure. If I'm hosing from the side water manifold, where will this gunk come out (the main objective)? Or do I go from the top hose manifold, hoping the gunk gets washed out of the side manifold? Definitely don't want to cause more problems in my initial attempt to get the Pearl running with later exhaustive inspection, repair!!!

Thanks again!
Steve

[Greig Smith]

Steve you *really* want to do this side water manifold now, while the engine is out (and preferably when the block is off the engine for easy handling) as the job is a monumental pain in the A when the engine is in the car and something goes snap....

The casting of the block leaves very narrow water passages between the individual cylinders which can be seen through that oval opening in the side of the block, hence the reference to using a hacksaw to prod and rod them open. along with a piece of wire to scratch to the front & rear of that opening. I generally do this when the block is bone dry & then blast the scratchings out with compressed air - you will be amazed what lurks in corners. The more 'stuff & scale' you can get out, the better the cooling will be.

The leftover stuff can be removed using the old stocking trick - use the cut-off toe of a ladies stocking (how you get her to relinquish said stockings is up to you.....). You need about 3/4 the length of the top hose. Insert the stocking up the top hose with a screwdriver handle to make it easy, wrap the open end around the base of the top hose & trap under the clamp. Then drive, but keep an eye on the engine and the slightest inkling of anything, shut down and pull the stocking out - it acts as a micro-fine filter and picks up all the loose stuff you didn't get out the first time & more importantly, it picks up stuff that comes loose with a bit of heat when running the motor as well and anything small enough to circulate through the radiator tubes. Caution: - Don't stick the stocking into the top of the top hose, the flow causes it to go into the header tank where it snags on the sharp edges of the fins... guess how I know this.

Empty the crud out the stocking & re-fit until it comes out clean - job done

Aye
Greig